Greece - Korina Miller [299]
Nikoleta ( 22830 24719; nikoleta@thn.forthnet.gr; Kapodistriou 11; s/d without air-con €25/30, s/d with air-con €40/50, ste €55; ) Some distance inland from the south end of town, but its spotless, uncluttered rooms are exceptional value and come with a charming welcome. There is a lovely garden area.
Faros ( 22830 22712, 6932800525; s/d/tr €35/50/80; ) This is a handy place for the Outer Port ferry quay. The rooms are colourful and quirky, but some are rather small. The small outside courtyard is filled with leafy colour.
MIDRANGE
Oceanis ( 22830 22452; oceanis@mail.gr; Akti G Drosou; s/d/tr €35/50/70; ) Rooms are not overly large at this modern, well-run hotel, but they are clean and well equipped. It even has some genuine, if very small, single rooms. There’s a lift to all floors. Breakfast costs €5.
Hotel Posidonion ( 22830 23123; www.poseidonio.gr; Paralia 4; s/d/tr €60/70/85; ) A convenient midwaterfront position makes this long-established hotel with decent, comfortable rooms a popular choice. Communal lounges overlooking the harbour front are a pleasant feature.
Altana Hotel ( 22830 25102; www.altanahotel.gr; s/d €85/100, ste €145-195; ) Located about 700m to the north of town, this charming boutique hotel has a modernist Cycladean style, all snowy white walls and cool interiors incorporating distinctive Tinian motifs. Altana is an ideal base from which to explore the island, and its young family owners are courteous and friendly. Full breakfast is included.
Eating
Malamatenia ( 22830 24240; G Gagou; mains €6.50-12) A local favourite, Malamatenia is just up from To Koutouki and has specialities such as shrimps in a wine and tomato sauce with feta cheese, and youvetsi, beef in tomato sauce cooked in a clay pot, with pasta.
To Koutouki tis Elenis ( 22830 24857; G Gagou 5; mains €7-18) This cosy little place on the narrow lane that veers off from the bottom of Evangelistria has such worthwhile dishes as chicken in lemon sauce, fresh cuttlefish and fish soup.
Pallada Taverna ( 22830 23516; Plateia Palladas; mains €7.50-11) Excellent Greek dishes are on offer here with some particularly fine items such as fresh squid stuffed with rice, and zucchini balls with anise and cheese. Local wines from the barrel are persuasive and the house retsina is more than fine.
Metaxy Mas ( 22830 25945; Plateia Palladas; mains €8-20) Modern Mediterranean cuisine is the rule at this stylish restaurant where starters such as Tinian artichokes, aubergine soufflé and louza (local smoked ham) smooth the way to mains of chicken, pork and veal or specialities such as cuttlefish with spinach.
Symposion ( 22830 24368; Evangelistria 13; mains €9-18) A pretty staircase leads to this elegant cafe-restaurant. It does breakfasts (€4 to €13), crêpes and sandwiches (€3.50 to €8.50), as well as pasta dishes, mixed plates, and main dishes such as grilled sea bass with piquant local greens.
Drinking & Entertainment
Café Piazza ( 22830 23483) A busy, gossipy place at the inner end of the line of cafe-bars on the Tinos harbour front. It has a deep terrace and a cosy inside area.
Koursaros ( 22830 23963; 8am-3am) This long-established bar spins an engaging mix of rock, funk and jazz. It’s at the far end of the line of harbour-front cafe-bars.
In the back lanes opposite the Middle Port there’s a clutch of music and dance bars such as Village Club, Volto and Sibylla, glowing with candy-coloured light and churning out clubby standards and Greek pop as a counterbalance to all that sacred song.
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AROUND TINOS
Outside Hora’s conspicuous religiosity and down-to-earth commercialism, the countryside of Tinos is a revelation in itself, a glorious mix of wild hill tops crowned with crags, unspoiled villages, fine beaches and fascinating architecture that