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Greece - Korina Miller [310]

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covering just about every need from fresh fruit and vegetables, cheese, pasta and bread to herbal cosmetics and even organic cleaning products and books on all things organic.

For original gift ideas try Efimerides ( 22890 79180; Drakopoulou 4) with its selection of objets d’art, while opposite is SurReal ( 22890 28323; Drakopoulou 1), which specialises in leaflike leatherware.


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AROUND MYKONOS

Beaches

Mykonos has a good number of beaches and most have golden sand in attractive locations. They’re not big enough, though, that you’ll escape from the crowds, and they’re extremely popular and busy, especially from June onwards. Don’t expect seclusion, although there can be a distinct sense of exclusion as various cliques commandeer the sun loungers, while segregation zones of style and sheer snobbery dominate at some locations.

You need to be a party person for the likes of Paradise and Super Paradise. It can all get very claustrophobic, but it’s heaven for the gregarious. Most beaches have a varied clientele, and attitudes to toplessness and nudity also vary, but what’s accepted at each beach is obvious when you get there.

An excellent guide to island beaches and their specific or mixed clientele can be found on the beaches link of www.mykonos-accommodation.com.

The nearest beaches to Hora (Mykonos), which are also the island’s least glamorous beaches, are Malaliamos; the tiny and crowded Tourlos, 2km to the north; and Agios Stefanos, 4km. About 3.5km south of Hora is the packed and noisy Ornos, from where you can hop onto boats for other beaches. Just west is Agios Ioannis. The sizable package-holiday resort of Platys Gialos is 4km from Hora on the southwest coast. All of the above beaches are family orientated.

Platys Gialos is the caïque jumping-off point for the glitzier beaches to the east, such as Paradise and Super Paradise.

Approximately a kilometre south of Platys Gialos you’ll find the pleasant Paraga Beach, which has a small gay section. About 2km east of here is the famous Paradise, which is not a recognised gay beach, but has a lively younger scene. Super Paradise (aka Plintri or Super P) has a fully gay section. Mixed and gay-friendly Elia is the last caïque stop, and a few minutes’ walk from here is the small and pleasant Agrari. Nudity is fairly commonplace on all of these beaches.

North-coast beaches can be exposed to the meltemi (northeasterly wind), but Panormos and Agios Sostis are fairly sheltered and becoming more popular. Both have a mix of gay and nongay devotees.

For out-of-the-way beaching you need to head for the likes of Lia on the southeast coast, or the smaller Fokos and Mersini on the east coast, but you’ll need tough wheels and undercarriage to get there.

ACTIVITIES

Dive Adventures ( 22890 26539; www.diveadventures.gr; Paradise Beach) offers a full range of diving courses with multilingual instructors. Two introductory dives cost €130; snorkelling costs €30. There are various dive packages starting with a five-dive deal for €225 and PADI certification courses are available.

On a great location at Kalafatis Beach, Planet Windsailing ( 22890 72345; www.pezi-huber.com) has one-hour or one-day windsurfing for €26 or €60, respectively, or a three-hour beginner’s course for €75.

Also at Kalafatis, the Kalafati Dive Center ( 22890 71677; www.mykonos-diving.com) has the full range of diving courses including a 10-boat-dive deal with tank and weights for €290 and with full gear for €390. A single boat dive with tank and weights costs €45, or with all equipment €60. A ‘discover scuba diving’ session is €45. There’s a 10% discount for prepaid bookings.

SLEEPING

Mykonos Camping ( 22890 24578; www.mycamp.gr; camp sites per adult/child/tent €10/5/5, bungalows per person €15-30, apt €180-235) This budget option is by the pleasant Paraga Beach (a 10-minute walk from Platys Gialos). Total peace and privacy cannot be guaranteed but facilities are reasonable and there are also bungalows and apartments that sleep two to six people.

Twins Apartments ( 22890 26241;

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