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of Bazeos Castle ( 22850 31402; 10am-5pm & 6-9pm) stands prominently in the landscape about 2km east of the village of Sangri. The castle was built in its original form as the Monastery of Timios Stavros (True Cross) during the 17th century, but monks abandoned the site in the early 19th century. It was later bought by the Bazeos family, whose modern descendants have refurbished the building and its late-medieval rooms with great skill and imagination. The castle now functions as a cultural centre and stages art exhibitions and the annual Naxos Festival during July and August, when concerts, plays and literary readings are held. The price of admission to these varies.

About 1.5km south of Sangri is the impressive Temple of Demeter (Dimitra’s Temple; 22850 22725; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). The ruins and reconstructions are not large, but they are historically fascinating. There is a site museum with some fine reconstructions of temple features. Signs point the way from Sangri.

Apiranthos Απεραθος

Apiranthos is an atmospheric mountain village of unadorned stone houses, marble-paved streets and alleyways that scramble up the slopes of Mt Fanari (883m). Its inhabitants are descendants of refugees who fled Crete to escape Turkish repression; they retain a strong individuality and a rich dialect, and the village has always been noted for its spirited politics and populism. There is an impressive trio of museums.

On the main road, to the right of the start of the village’s main street, is the museum of natural history (admission €3; 8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun). The geology museum (admission €3; 8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun) and the archaeology museum (admission free; 8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun) are part-way along the main street. The latter has a marvellous collection of small Cycladian artefacts. The museums are notionally open from 7pm to 10pm in summer, but all the opening times stated here are ‘flexible’, in keeping with an admirable local spirit of independence.

There are a number of tavernas and kafeneia (coffee houses) in the village.

There is parking at the entrance to Apiranthos, on the main Hora–Apollonas road.

Moutsouna Μουτσοα

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The road from Apiranthos to Moutsouna descends in an exhilarating series of S-bends through spectacular mountain scenery. Formerly a busy port that shipped out the emery mined in the region, Moutsouna is now a quiet place, although there is some development. Seven kilometres south of the village is a good beach at Psili Ammos.

There are a few pensions and tavernas, mainly in Moutsouna, but some are scattered along the coast road.

Apollonas Απóλλωας

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Tavernas line the waterfront adjoining a reasonable beach at Apollonas, on the north coast, but the main attraction here is a giant 7th-century-BC kouros (male statue of the Archaic period), which lies in an ancient quarry in the hillside above the village. It is signposted to the left as you approach Apollonas on the main inland road from Hora. This 10.5m statue may have been abandoned before being finished, because weaknesses in the stone caused cracking. Apollonas has several domatia and tavernas.

With your own transport you can return to Hora via the west-coast road, passing through wild and sparsely populated country with awe-inspiring sea views. Several tracks branch down to secluded beaches, such as Abram.

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LITTLE CYCLADES ΜΙΚΡΕΣ ΚΥΚΛΑΔΕΣ

Step off the already slow-paced world of the larger Cycladic islands and head, with time to spare, for the chain of small islands between Naxos and Amorgos. Only four – Donousa, Ano Koufonisia, Iraklia and Schinousa – have permanent populations. All were densely populated in antiquity, as shown by the large number of ancient graves found on the islands. During the Middle Ages, only wild goats and even wilder pirates inhabited the islands. Post Independence, intrepid souls from Naxos and Amorgos recolonised. Now, the islands welcome growing numbers of independent-minded tourists.

Donousa is the northernmost of the group and the furthest from Naxos. The others are clustered near