Greece - Korina Miller [329]
Sleeping & Eating
Domatia and tavernas are concentrated in and around Agios Georgios, although a few open on the beach at Livadi in summer. Domatia owners meet the boats, but in high season it’s advisable to book.
Anna’s Place ( 22850 71145; s €40, d €50-70, tr €85; ) Located on high ground above the port, these lovely, airy rooms have stylish furnishings and the front balconies have sweeping views. There’s a big communal kitchen and outside eating area.
Agnadema/Dimitri’s ( /fax 22850 71484, 6978048789; studio/d €40/50; ) There’s a great choice at this peaceful, family-owned property on the hillside above Agios Georgios harbour. Agnadema’s rooms are big, bright and immaculate. Agnadema means ‘great view’, an understatement considering the superb position of the property. Dimitri’s are a row of adjacent small studios with shared verandah and are equally well equipped.
Maistrali Apartments ( 2285071807; nickmaistrali@in.gr; d/tr €40/60; ) The communal terrace at these well-equipped apartments has unrivalled open views to Ios and the south. There are only a few rooms, so booking for high season is advised.
There are a few tavernas in Agios Georgios. All serve fresh fish dishes and other Greek standards. Maïstrali ( 22850 71807; dishes €3.80-7) has a pleasant terrace and also has rooms and fairly creaky internet access. Perigiali ( 22850 71118; dishes €4-7), a popular place, has a large marble table encircling an old pine tree.
In Hora, Taverna to Steki ( 22850 71579; dishes €4-8) is a classic village eatery and is well known for its locally sourced ingredients and traditional food.
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SCHINOUSA ΣΧΙΝΟΥΣΑ
pop 206
Schinousa (skih-noo-sah) lies a mere 2km across the sea from Iraklia and is similar in nature – slow-paced and endearing. It has a number of beaches, although not all are attractive, and down-to-earth Hora (Panagia) on the breezy crest of the island has sweeping views of the sea.
Ferries dock at the fishing harbour of Mersini. Hora is a hot 1km uphill (domatia owners are always around to meet ferries with transport).
Paralos Travel ( 22850 71160, fax 22850 71957) is halfway along the main street. It sells ferry tickets and also doubles as the post office. Grispos Travel ( 22850 29329), at the far end of the village, sells ferry tickets.
There’s a public telephone in the main square and an ATM next to Deli restaurant. A reasonably useful website is www.schinousa.gr.
On the way down to Tsigouri beach is a little folk museum that features a reconstructed bread oven. Opening hours go with the flow of island life.
Dirt tracks lead from Hora to beaches around the coast. The nearest are Tsigouri and Livadi, both uncrowded outside August. Haul a little further to decent beaches at Almyros and Aligaria. With the exception of Tsigouri, there are no shops or tavernas at the beaches, so take food and water.
Sleeping
There are a few rooms down at Mersini, but if you want to see the rest of the island you’re much better off staying in Hora.
Anna Domatia ( 22850 71161; Hora; s/d/tr €40/45/50; ) Well-kept, good-sized rooms, just behind the main street on the west side of the village, make Anna’s a good-value choice. For an extra €5 you can get a room with a kitchen.
Iliovasilema ( 22850 71948; iliovasilema@schinousa.gr; Hora; s €45, d €55-60, tr €60-65; ) Ideally located on the western outskirts of the village, looking south over the island, this bright, clean place has good-sized rooms and most of the balconies have fine views.
Galini ( 22850 71983, 21046 29448; s/d/tr €50/50/60) Most rooms at this well-positioned pension have fabulous views. It stands right at the far end of town in its own grounds. Rooms are bright and clean and pleasantly quaint. There’s no air conditioning, but there are sturdy ceiling fans.
Eating
Akbar ( 22850 72001; dishes €3-6.50) A colourful little cafe in the main street, Akbar has mezes and fresh salads, as well