Greece - Korina Miller [344]
BUDGET
There are numerous fast-food outlets and cafes in Fira. Plateia Theotokopoulou has a few cafe-bars where the terraces are great for seeing all human life pass by.
Vythos ( 22860 22285) A local favourite, located at the start of the plateia.
Mylos Café ( 22860 25640; Firostefani; ) On the caldera edge in Firostefani, this stylish and relaxing venue is located in a converted windmill and is the ideal place for relaxing drinks and light snacks. It has a unique circular internet area (per hour €3.50) on the top floor and the cafe is a wi-fi hotspot.
Piccolino ( 22860 22595; Danezi; snacks €1-2.30) A snack bar and takeaway that dishes out a terrific range of sandwiches, wraps and other snacks, as well as hot and cold drinks.
NRG ( 22860 24997; Erythrou Stavrou; dishes €2.20-6.20) Still one of the best places to stop for a snack at the heart of Fira, this popular little crêperie offers crêpes, sandwiches, tortillas and an ever-popular Indian curry (€5), as well a range of ice cream, coffee and smoothies.
Nikolas ( 22860 24550; Erythrou Stavrou; dishes €6-9) The traditional Nikolas just keeps on flying the flag for the village taverna, at the heart of Fira. No-nonsense service dishes out grilled calamari, cuttlefish in a wine sauce and beef stew with onions.
Ouzeri ( 6945849921; Fabrika Shopping Centre; dishes €6.50-13.50) Fish dishes are especially good at this central mezedhopoleio and include prawn saganaki and a seafood platter of mixed fish. Starters such as artichoke saganaki ring the changes, as do meat dishes that include youvetsi (veal in tomato sauce with pasta) and pork fillet in a mustard sauce. Vegetarians can enjoy Dakos salads and a variety of nonmeat starters.
You’ll also find several gyros stands in and around Fira’s main square.
MIDRANGE
Lithos ( 22860 24421; Agiou Mina; mains €7-19.50) Amid a swath of eateries on the caldera edge, Lithos stands out for its well-prepared dishes and attentive service. Choose from persuasive starters such as fava with cheese and cherry tomatoes. Salads are crisp and fresh and mains cover poultry, meat, fish and shellfish dishes.
Zafora ( 22860 23203; cnr Nomikou & M Nomikou; mains €8.50-22.50) Sturdy Greek classics come with stunning caldera views at this big restaurant near the cable-car station. The pork tenderloin marinated in red wine, ginger, honey and soy sauce is a favourite and there are fish dishes, pasta and crêpes also on offer and breakfasts at €4.50 to €8.50.
Ampelos ( 22860 25554; Fabrika Shopping Centre; mains €10-26) There’s plenty of space in this central Fira restaurant with its 2nd-floor terrace with a view. Try the grilled shrimp in a red pepper sauce with rice or the mussels saganaki or settle for a selection of such starters as stuffed mushrooms with dill, garlic and parsley in white wine and the speciality pie of green onion, dill, pine nuts and Parmesan cheese. There’s a pleasing house wine or excellent Santorini and mainland reds and whites for up to €50 or so a bottle.
Koukoumavlos ( 22860 23807; mains €25-35) Discreet in location and outstanding for cuisine, the terrace of this fine restaurant has good views, while the interior has retained the vaulted style of its original Fira mansion. An uncrowded menu lists such certainties as lobster and monkfish terrine, or Santorini fava and smoked trout and salmon in a mandarin sauce with roasted almonds. Meat dishes are equally subtle and the wine list likewise. Look for the wooden doorway down to the right of the Hotel Atlantis.
Drinking
Drinks prices can be cranked up in Fira, even for beer, never mind the stellar cocktail prices. You’re often paying for the view, so don’t glaze over too early.
Kira Thira ( 22860 22770; Erythrou Stavrou) This bar is comfortable with itself; unsurprisingly as it’s the oldest bar in Fira and one of the best. Smooth jazz, ethnic sounds and occasional live music fill out the background beneath the barrel roof.
Tropical ( 22860 23089;