Greece - Korina Miller [356]
The Milos Folk & Arts Museum ( 22870 21292; 10am-2pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun & Mon) has fascinating exhibits, including traditional costumes, woven goods and embroidery. It’s signposted from the bus turnaround in Plaka.
At the bus turnaround, go east for the path that climbs to the Frankish Kastro, built on the ancient acropolis and offering panoramic views of most of the island. The 13th-century church, Thalassitras, is inside the walls.
There are some Roman ruins near Trypiti, including Greece’s only Christian catacombs ( 22870 21625; admission free; 8am-7pm Tue-Sun). The site was closed for some time but has been skilfully renovated and was due to be open by 2010. Stay on the bus towards Trypiti and get off at a T-junction by a big signpost indicating the way. Follow the road down for about 500m to where a track (signed) goes off to the right. This leads to the rather forlorn, but somehow thrilling, spot where a farmer found the Venus de Milo in 1820; you can’t miss the huge sign. A short way further along the track is the well-preserved ancient theatre, which hosts the Milos Festival every July. Back on the surfaced road, head downhill to reach the 1st-century catacombs.
Sleeping & Eating
All of the following places are located in Plaka.
Betty’s Rooms ( 22870 21538; d €70) Forget Santorini; these rooms in a family house are at the bottom end of Plaka and have fantastic views.
Archondoula Karamitsou Studios ( 22870 23820; www.archondoula-studios.gr; ste €75-130) More great views are enjoyed at these traditional rooms, which are full of local craftwork and island antiques. Prices drop substantially outside August.
Windmill of Karamitsos ( 6945568086; kaliopekavalierou@yahoo.gr; r €170) A fascinating and unique sleeping experience can be had at this converted windmill that has a separate cooking and eating annexe. It’s in a peaceful position on a hill top, of course, with great views.
Archondoula ( 22870 21384; dishes €5-15) All the family is involved at this great mezedhopoleio. The food is classic traditional across a range of favourites from fresh salads to beef with honey sauce and shrimps with cream sauce. It’s just along the main street from the bus turnaround in Plaka.
Utopia Café ( 22870 23678) One of the best viewpoints in the Cyclades can be enjoyed from the cool terrace of Utopia, down the narrow alley opposite Archondoula.
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AROUND MILOS
The village of Klima, below Trypiti and the catacombs, was the port of ancient Milos. It’s a picturesque fishing village with a lovely little harbour. Whitewashed buildings, with coloured doors and balconies, have boathouses on the ground floor and living quarters above.
Plathiena is a fine sandy beach below Plaka, to the north. On the way to Plathiena you can visit the fishing villages of Areti and Fourkovouni.
At Sarakiniko are snow-white rock formations and natural terraces. Pollonia, on the north coast, is a fishing village-cum-resort with a beach and domatia. The boat to Kimolos departs here.
The beaches of Provatas and Paleohori, on the south coast, are long and sandy, and Paleohori has hot springs.
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KIMOLOS ΚΙΜΩΛΟΣ
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Kimolos (Map) feels like a genuine step back in time. Perched off the northeast tip of Milos, it receives a steady trickle of visitors, especially day-trippers arriving from Pollonia. The boat docks at the port of Psathi, from where it’s 1.5km to the pretty capital of Hora. The medieval kastro, embedded at the heart of Hora, is a mazelike joy. Albeit in ruins, there are surviving walls and restoration work is ongoing.
There’s an ATM by the town hall in Hora.
Beaches can be reached by caïque from Psathi. At the centre of the island is the 364m-high cliff on which sits the fortress of Paleokastro.
There are domatia, tavernas, cafes and bars enough in Hora and Psathi. Domatia owners meet ferries. Expect to pay single/double rates of about €35/50.
The taverna To Kyma ( 22870 51001; dishes