Greece - Korina Miller [359]
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AROUND SIFNOS
Not to be missed is the walled cliff-top village of Kastro, 3km from Apollonia. The former capital, it is a magical place of buttressed alleyways and whitewashed houses. It has a small archaeological museum ( 22840 31022; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun).
Buses go to Kastro from Apollonia but you can walk there, mainly on old paved pathways. The start of the path is 20m to the right (Vathy road) from the T-junction in Apollonia. Go right down some steps and then through a tunnel beneath the road. A pleasant path circumnavigates Kastro and is especially scenic on its northern side. Midway round the northern side, above the glittering sea, is the charming little art workshop of Maximos (Panagiotis Fanariotis; 22840 33692), whose speciality is handmade jewellery in original gold and silver motifs. Prices for these lovely pieces start at about €6 and are far below the usual price charged for work of such high quality. There is also accommodation here (see below).
Platys Gialos, 6km south of Apollonia, has a big, generous beach, entirely backed by tavernas, domatia and shops. The bus terminates at the beach’s southwestern end. The Chrisopigi Travel Agency ( 22840 71523; www.sifnoschrisopigi.gr) is a useful agency in Platys Gialos that sells ferry tickets, hires cars, books excursions and can find accommodation. Vathy, on the west coast, is an easy-going little village within the curved horns of an almost circular bay. Faros is a cosy little fishing hamlet with a couple of nice beaches nearby, including the little beach of Fasolou, reached up steps and over the headland from the bus stop.
Sleeping & Eating
KASTRO
Maximos ( 22840 33692; r €50) A tiny terrace with unbeatable sea views comes with this quirky little room beside Maximos’ workshop, located on the northern side of Kastro.
Rafeletou Apartments ( 22840 31161, 69324 74001; d €60-77, tr €70-90, apt €105-120) For an authentic Kastro experience, these family-run apartments at the heart of the village are ideal.
To Astro ( 22840 31476; mains €5-9; mid-Apr–Oct) Kastro’s genuine ‘star’, as the name translates, certainly lives up to its appellation. Lovingly run by the owner-cook, it has tasty island dishes including eggplant and meatballs, octopus with olives, and lamb in traditional Sifniot style.
PLATYS GIALOS ΠΛΑΤΥΣ ΓΙΑΛΟΣ
Although there are plenty of sleeping places here, many cater for package tourists.
Angeliki Rooms ( 22840 71288; d/tr €55/70) A beachfront venue with pleasant rooms, near the quieter south end of the beach and just back from the bus terminus.
Hotel Efrosini ( 22840 71353; www.hotel-efrosini.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €65/95/117; ) Right on the beach, this bright and well-kept hotel is one of the best on the Platys Gialos strip. The small balconies overlook a leafy courtyard.
Ariadne Restaurant ( 22840 71277; mains €6-16) You can tell from the well-kept and well-presented seating area that some care goes into this fine eatery. The lamb in red-wine sauce with herbs is a speciality. Fish is by the kilo, but you can settle for a seafood risotto for €16 or fish soup for €15.
VATHY ΒΑΘΥ
Areti Studios ( 22840 71191; d/apt €60/100; ) Just in from the beach and amidst olive groves and a lovely garden, rooms here are clean and bright and some have cooking facilities. If you are driving, the approach is down a rough and at times very narrow track that goes off left just before the main road ends.
Vathy has a fair choice of beachfront tavernas, such as Oceanida and Manolis, offering reliable Greek dishes.
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SERIFOS ΣΕΡΙΦΟΣ
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Serifos (seh-ri-fohs) has a raw and rugged beauty that is softened by green folds in its rocky hills. The traditional hora is a dramatic scribble of white houses that crowns a high and rocky peak, 2km to the north of the port of Livadi. It catches your eye the minute the port comes