Greece - Korina Miller [377]
At the Central Court, once surrounded by the palace’s high walls, the complex’s most important rooms begin. From the northern end of the west side, steps descend to the Throne Room, fenced off but still visible. The centrepiece, a simple, beautifully proportioned throne, is flanked by the Griffin Fresco (the Minoans held these mythical beasts sacred). Possibly the room was a shrine and the throne used by a high priestess rather than a king. The Minoans worshipped their gods in small shrines, not great temples, and each palace had several.
On the 1st floor of the palace’s west side is the section Evans called the Piano Nobile (the nobles’ floor), believing that the reception and state rooms had been here. A room here displays copies of some frescoes found.
Returning to the Central Court, you’ll see the impressive Grand Staircase leading from the palace’s eastern side to the (now off-limits) royal apartments, which Evans called the Domestic Quarter. Within the royal apartments, the Hall of the Double Axes was the king’s megaron, a spacious double room in which the ruler both slept and carried out certain court duties. There was a light well at one end and a balcony at the other to ensure air circulation. The room was named for the double axe marks on its light well, the sacred symbol of the Minoans.
A passage from here leads to the Queen’s Megaron. Above the door is a copy of the Dolphin Fresco, one of the most exquisite Minoan artworks, and a blue floral design decorates the portal. Next to this room is the queen’s bathroom, complete with terracotta bathtub and water closet, touted as the first ever to use the flush principle; water was poured down by hand.
Getting There & Away
Frequent buses from Iraklio’s bus station (Click here) and from near Morosini Fountain serve Knossos. From the coastal road, occasional signs direct drivers. Since several free car parks exist close to the site, don’t listen to touts advertising paid parking lots along the way.
Return to beginning of chapter
OTHER MINOAN SITES
Besides Knossos, central Crete has other significant Minoan sites. Less reconstructed (and less flamboyant) than Knossos, they provide a somewhat different, more raw glimpse into Minoan life, without the architectural interpretations of Sir Arthur Evans. For this reason some archaeological purists prefer them to Knossos.
Malia Μλια
Some 3km east of the package-tour sprawl of north-coast Malia, the Minoan Palace of Malia ( 28970 31597; admission €4; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is smaller than either Knossos or Phaestos. It once comprised a palace complex and a town built on this flat, fertile plain.
From the West Court (where the entrance is) walk to the southern end to see the eight circular pits probably used to store grain. East of these, the palace’s former main entrance leads to the southern end of the Central Court. At the southwest corner stands the Kernos Stone, a disc with 34 holes around its edge; archaeologists still can’t explain its original use.
The Loggia, north of the Central Staircase (at the north end of the palace’s west side), was used for religious ceremonies.
The site’s exhibition hall has reconstructions and interesting photos, including aerial shots. Half-hourly buses connect Malia with Iraklio (€3.70, one hour).
Phaestos Φαιστóς
Conveniently, Crete’s three other major archaeological sites lie near one other, forming a rough triangle 50km south of Iraklio.
Phaestos ( 28920 42315; adult/student €4/2, incl Agia Triada €6/3; 8am-7.30pm Jun-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Apr), 63km from Iraklio, was the second-most-important Minoan palace-city. Phaestos (fes-tos) also enjoys the most awe-inspiring location, with panoramic views of the Mesara Plain and Mt Ida. The palace layout is identical to Knossos, with rooms arranged around a central court. And, like Knossos, most of Phaestos was built over an older palace destroyed in the late Middle Minoan period. However, unlike other Minoan sites, parts of this