Greece - Korina Miller [385]
Flisvos Rooms ( 28320 31988; www.flisvos-plakias.gr; s/d €35/45; ) On the central-eastern waterfront, the Flisvos has tasteful rooms overlooking the sea, and friendly service.
Pension Thetis ( 28320 31430; thetisstudios@gmail.com; studio €45-70; ) A nice pick for families, these self-catering studios are set around a cool, leafy garden containing a small play park for kids. It’s roughly opposite Ipokambos.
Eating
To Xehoristo ( 28320 31214; souvlaki €2.60) on the central-eastern waterfront is the local favourite for souvlaki (you must specify ‘souvlaki kalamaki’ when ordering, or you will be given gyros – the Greek version of doner kebab). The sound system plays traditional Cretan music, and the happy chefs sing along.
Nikos Souvlaki ( 28320 31921; mains €5-8) This bare-bones former souvlaki joint just up from the post office now serves sit-down meals instead, but it’s still popular with the hostel crowd.
Taverna Manoussos ( 28320 31313; mains €5-9; 9am-1am) Cretan specialities are prepared at this friendly family-run taverna on the eastern side of the inland road parallel to the waterfront. The energetic, moustachioed owner, Manousos Christodoulakis, also rents simple rooms (double €30).
Taverna Plateia ( 28320 31560; Myrthios; mains €6-9; 9am-1am) Located in Myrthios village, just above Plakias, this long-time favourite run by the gracious Fredericos Kalogerakis and family enjoys sublime views of the sea far below. Try the wonderful myzithropitakia (sweet cheese pies) and octopus stifadho (octopus in tomato and wine sauce).
Taverna Christos ( 28320 31472; mains €7-10) Nestled amidst the more touristy western-waterfront tavernas, Christos has a romantic tamarisk-shaded terrace and does good Cretan dishes and fresh fish.
Drinking & Entertainment
Plakias’ cafes line the waterfront, while the bars – few, but lively – are clustered along the western end.
Ostraco Bar ( 28320 31710; 9am-late) This old favourite on the western waterfront is a small upstairs bar, where gregarious drinking and dancing to the latest pop hits takes place. There’s a nice outdoor balcony facing the water.
Joe’s Bar ( 9am-late) Officially called Nufaro, at the time of writing this was the hostel crowd’s local. Despite the dark, warehouselike interior, it plays a good selection of rock and pop and service is friendly. It’s on the central waterfront.
Getting There & Away
In summer seven daily buses come from Rethymno (€4.10, one hour), including an evening one via Preveli (usually not listed on Rethymno bus station’s timetables). There are no buses eastward to Frangokastello and Hora Sfakion. The bus stop has a timetable.
Getting Around
Alianthos Rent-a-Car ( 28320 32033; www.alianthos-group.com) has Plakias’ best selection of vehicles, and island-wide service; it’s a block inland on Plakias’ western side.
Easy Ride ( 28320 20052; www.easyride.gr), close to the post office, has mountain bikes, bicycles, scooters and motorcycles for hire, as does nearby Anso Travel ( 28320 31712; www.ansotravel.com), which also offers guided walking tours.
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AROUND PLAKIAS
Plakias is an excellent base for local activities, ranging from walks and beach adventures to traditional village exploration.
Some 2.5km west of Plakias on the coast, Souda Beach is an appealing sandy beach tucked within a lovely cove – often less windy than Plakias’ main beach. There are umbrellas and a taverna behind, but it’s more relaxed than the main one.
Also nice but more populated is Damnoni Beach, behind the striking stone headland that comprises Plakias Bay’s eastern edge; further on, One-Rock Beach is an idyllic, clothing-optional sandy cove. A coastal path across the headland now allows a circular coastal walk, offering stunning sea views. Chris at Youth Hostel Plakias can inform about both the beach and walking trail.
The traditional villages of Myrthios, directly above Plakias, and the less visited Selia, a few kilometres further