Greece - Korina Miller [387]
These coves stretch west to the three giant rocks rising from the sea that give Triopetra its name. This junior settlement is populated by a single, though excellent, set of domatia and two tavernas above its placid sandy beach. From Agios Pavlos, it’s a 3km drive along a paved road. Another 12km-long windy asphalt road from Akoumia village, west of Kato Saktouria on the Rethymno–Agia Galini road, also accesses Triopetra’s westernmost beaches.
The all-encompassing silence at night and boundless starry sky, especially at Triopetra, add to the sensuous spirituality of the place, which even nonyogic visitors might appreciate. This is truly a magical spot, far from the distractions of the outside world, where you can experience southern Crete’s desolate beauty at its most essential.
Sleeping & Eating
Taverna Pensione Pavlos ( /fax 28310 25189, 6945998101; www.triopetra.com.gr; d/tr/q €35/37/45; ) Some guests book three years in advance here. These simple rooms and terrace restaurant overlooking the sea remain the singular passion of owner Pavlos Kakogiannakis – now ably assisted by his kind, English-speaking son, Giorgos. The rooms are well maintained, with kitchenettes and sea-view balconies. The taverna serves local meat, home-grown organic produce, fish and lobster; since Pavlos is usually boating at dawn to check the nets, you’ll only get fresher fish if you catch it yourself. It’s best to ‘reserve’ a fish for dinner in the morning, before they’re all taken. You’ll encounter the taverna immediately after entering from Agios Pavlos.
Agios Pavlos Hotel & Taverna ( 28320 71104; www.agiospavloshotel.gr; d €40) This family-run place in Agios Pavlos is the area’s main accommodation, and has a small shop selling basic supplies. The shady terrace, overlooking the beach, is bedecked with colourful hammocks and fruit drinks, creating an offbeat New-Age-meets-South-Seas kind of vibe.
The main building’s simple rooms have small balconies overlooking the sea, plus rooms under the terrace below the taverna; it serves good Cretan food (mayirefta €5 to €8). The cafe-bar next door has internet.
Enquire at Agios Pavlos Hotel & Taverna about the large, self-contained studios on the facing cliff – the Kavos Melissa complex (r €45). A couple of slightly cheaper domatia exist higher above the beach, on the entry road.
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AGIA GALINI ΑΓΙΑ ΓΑΛΗΝΗ
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Further east of Agios Pavlos from the main road, the former fishing port of Agia Galini (a-ya ga-lee-nee) has lost much of its charm due to overdevelopment and package tourism. It’s nothing like the rowdy north-coast party zones of Malia and Hersonisos; while both have large British contingents, Agia Galini is reserved more for the parents of the kids who flock to those places.
Agia Galini has a nice ambience at night, when the lights of its domatia, bars and tavernas flicker over the sea. It has a decent but crowded town beach (though boat excursions reach better beaches), and makes a convenient base for visiting Phaestos, Agia Triada, Agios Pavlos and Matala.
Orientation & Information
For information online, visit www.agia-galini.com. The bus station stands atop the entrance road, the post office is just past it. Agia Galini has ATMs and travel agencies with currency exchange, plus cafes with internet access, including Hoi Polloi ( 28320 91102; per hr €4; 9am-late).
Sleeping
Agia Galini Camping ( 28320 91386; camp sites per adult/tent €5/4; ) Next to the beach, 2.5km east of town, this well-run camping ground is shaded and has a pool, restaurant and minimarket.
Stohos Rooms & Taverna ( 28320 91433; www.stohos.gr; d incl breakfast €40-45; ) On the main beach, Stohos has self-catering apartments upstairs with big balconies, and huge studios downstairs ideal for families or groups. The excellent taverna serves kleftiko and other clay-oven Cretan specialities (€7 to €10).
Adonis ( 28320 91333; www.agia-galini.com; r €50-120; ) This pool-equipped hotel spread over several buildings has light and clean rooms, studios and apartments, some with sea-view