Greece - Korina Miller [390]
The well-restored Venetian Great Arsenal houses the Centre for Mediterranean Architecture, which hosts regular events and exhibitions. Similarly, Hania’s Municipal Art Gallery ( 28210 92294; www.pinakothiki-chania.gr; Halidon 98; 10am-2pm & 7-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat; admission €2, Wed free) hosts exhibitions of modern Greek art.
The restored Etz Hayyim Synagogue (Parodos Kondylaki; 28210 86286; www.etz-hayyim-hania.org; 10am-8pm Tue-Fri, 5pm-8pm Sun, 10am-3pm & 5-8pm Mon) memorialises Hania’s former Jewish population, victims of the Nazi occupation.
Just up from the eastern waterfront, the formerly Turkish Splantzia quarter is a relaxing spot, where the colourful, narrow streets and leafy squares now host boutique hotels, galleries, cafes and bars.
Here, on Daliani, stands one of Hania’s two remaining minarets; the other, past a kafeneio on Plateia 1821, is quite memorably attached to the Church of Agios Nikolaos (Plateia 1821; 7am-noon & 4-7pm). Towering over the church’s opposite end is a belltower. Strung along in the air across the centre of it all are flapping, intertwined flags of Greece and Byzantium, a cheery display of blues and yellows that seems to festively reassert the final victory of Orthodoxy over both former occupiers, the schismatic Venetians and the infidel Turks.
The church’s foundations were laid in 1205 by Venetians, but Franciscan monks (in 1320) can probably be credited with the massive structure’s curving ceiling and array of stained-glass windows, which filter a beautiful, kaleidoscopic flood of colour across the floor in late afternoon. In 1645 the Ottoman’s made the church into a mosque, but the Orthodox Church recovered it in 1918.
Finally, the Ancient Kydonia site east of the old harbour has few remains, though excavations continue.
Activities
EOS ( 28210 44647; www.eoshanion.gr; Tzanakaki 90), the Greek Mountaineering Association’s local branch, gives info about serious treks and climbs in the Lefka Ori, mountain refuges and the Trans-European E4 trail. It runs weekend excursions.
Friendly, English-speaking Manolis Mesarchakis ( 69769 92921; mesarchas@yahoo.gr), an alpine ski instructor and hiker, provides valuable information and can help arrange guided trips for those hungry for outdoors challenges tougher than the Samaria Gorge (boxed text).
Trekking Plan ( 28210 60861; www.cycling.gr), 8km west in Agia Marina, organises treks to the Agia Irini and Imbros gorges, climbs of Mt Gingilos, mountain-bike tours, canyoning, rappelling, rock climbing and kayaking trips. Alpine Travel ( 28210 50939; www.alpine.gr; Boniali 11-19) also organises treks.
Blue Adventures Diving ( 28210 40608; www.blueadventuresdiving.gr; Arholeon 11) offers a PADI certification course (€370) and daily diving trips (two dives €80), including beginner dives. Snorkelling and cruise options are offered too. Some of the popular dives take place just 6km west of Hania and include sea cave visits where unique endemic pink coral can be seen and seals occasionally visit.
Hania for Children
The public garden, between Tzanakaki and Dimokratias, has a playground, a shady cafe, and a small zoo with two kri-kri (endemic Cretan wild goats). The giant water park Limnoupolis ( 28210 33246; Varypetro; day pass adult/child 6-12yr €17/12, afternoon pass €12/9; 10am-7pm) south of town is also entertaining. Buses leave regularly from the bus station (€1.70).
Tours
Boat excursions to the nearby Agii Theodorou and Lazaretto islets, and across the Gulf of Hania, leave from the harbour. The M/S Irini ( 28210 52001; cruises €15, sunset cruises €8, child under 7yr free) runs daily cruises on a lovely 1930s cruiser, including free snorkelling gear, and sunset cruises with complimentary fruit and raki. However, the advertised glass-bottomed boat tours aren’t worth it.
Sleeping
Hania has evocative and memorable digs – you may linger longer than expected.