Greece - Korina Miller [396]
You’ll begin at Xyloskalo, named for the steep stone pathway flanked by wooden rails that enters the gorge, and finish at Agia Roumeli on the southern coast. In spring, wading through a stream is sometimes necessary; in summer, when the flow drops, the streambed rocks become stepping stones.
The gorge is wide for the first 6km, until the abandoned village of Samaria; its inhabitants were relocated when the gorge became a national park. Just south stands a small church dedicated to Saint Maria of Egypt, the gorge’s namesake.
The going then narrows and becomes more dramatic until, at the 11km mark, the canyon walls shrink to only 3.5m apart – the famous Iron Gates (Sidiroportes). A rickety wooden pathway takes you 20m across the water to the other side. At 12.5km, the gorge ends north of almost abandoned Old Agia Roumeli. From here the final 2km hike to Agia Roumeli is less exciting, though most hikers will at that point just be anticipating the refreshing dip they’ll take at this relaxed seaside village.
From Agia Roumeli, hikers must take a boat; most go to Sougia (and from there to Hania by bus), though you can also reach Hora Sfakio, Loutro and Paleohora.
Agia Roumeli also has accommodation and eating, should you wish to stay over. Farangi Restaurant ( 28250 91225; mains €5-8.50) has excellent Cretan specials and rents simple but clean rooms (double/triple €30/35; air-conditioned) above, while Gigilos Taverna & Rooms ( 28250 91383; gigilos@mycosmos.gr; s/d/tr €30/35/45; ) on the beach has nicely furnished rooms with bathrooms, and a communal fridge. The taverna (mains €5 to €7) has a relaxing beachfront terrace.
Getting There & Away
Samaria Gorge excursions are organised by innumerable travel agencies and resorts across Crete. ‘Samaria Gorge Long Way’ is the regular trek from Omalos, while ‘Samaria Gorge Easy Way’ starts at Agia Roumeli, looping back at the Iron Gates. However, going independently, ideally from Hania or Omalos itself, is cheaper and allows more options.
Hania–Omalos buses to Xyloskalo (Omalos; €5.90, 1½ hours) leave from Hania at 6.15am, 7.30am, and 8.30am. A direct bus to Xyloskalo from Paleohora in the southwest (€5.50, 1½ hours) leaves at 6.15am.
When you finish the hike in Agia Roumeli, two daily afternoon boats to Hora Sfakion (€7.50, one hour, 3.45pm and 6pm) via Loutro (€7, 45 minutes) are timed to meet buses going back to Hania. A morning boat also runs from Paleohora to Hora Sfakion, via Agia Roumeli, if you end up sleeping over.
Alternatively, take the boat west to Paleohora (€14, 1½ hours) at 4.45pm, via Sougia (€8, 45 minutes). The ticket office ( 28250 91251) is on the port.
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HORA SFAKION ΧΩΡΑ ΣΦΑΚΙΩΝ
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The more bullet holes you see in the passing road signs, the closer you are to Hora Sfakion (ho-rah sfah-kee-on). This eccentric, laid-back fishing port, a stopping-off point for returning Samaria Gorge hikers, is (along with Anogia) the island’s most proudly ‘Cretan’ town. And, when surveying the barren moonscape of the surrounding territory (known as Sfakia), you do have to give the Sfakians credit; not only have they survived for time eternal in this inhospitable terrain, they also built a fighting force of extraordinary magnitude, keeping the Turks out for centuries.
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EPIC ADVENTURES IN THE CRETAN WILDS
If you think Samaria is for wimps, head for the lesser-visited gorges south of Hania. They offer unparallelled opportunities for mountain treks, caving, rock climbing and even skiing in winter – though even seasoned pros will need local information and advice to ensure their safety and get the best from their experience.
The Anavasi hiking maps, marked with GPS coordinates, trails and other key details, are essential; most bookshops recommended in this guide sell them. Another book found mostly in Hania bookshops, The Caves of Hania, is recommended by local cavers.