Greece - Korina Miller [403]
Sleeping & Eating
Alfa Hotel ( /fax 28230 41620; alfacafeneion@aol.com; www.alfahotelazogires.blogspot.gr; Azogires; r from €25; ) Just up from the centre on the main road, the Alfa has clean, modern en suite rooms with balconies facing the far-off sea at Paleohora. Four of the eight rooms have air conditioning. There is a communal kitchen and a washing machine (€3 per load). A big hall is reserved for yoga and meditation groups; the terrace offers magnificent views of the mountains and sea. This tranquil, romantic place is ideal for alternative groups, including hill walkers and birdwatchers.
Alfa Restaurant ( 28230 41620; mains €4-6) Part coffee shop, part info centre, part restaurant, this place on the square does excellent local fare and makes a relaxing spot for a drink, too. Intriguing traditional implements and antiques line the walls, and local products like olive oil and honey are sold at very reasonable prices.
Getting There & Away
Azogires is about 15 minutes from Paleohora by car; taxis cost €10.
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GAVDOS ISLAND ΝΙΣΙ ΓΑΥΔΟΣ
pop 100
Europe’s most southerly point, Gavdos lies 65km south of Paleohora in the Libyan Sea. With but three tiny settlements and a smattering of rooms and tavernas, Gavdos is blissful, boasting several unspoilt beaches – some accessible only by boat. It attracts campers, nudists and free spirits seeking to peace out on balmy beaches under the stars.
Through the 1960s Gavdos had little water, electricity or phone lines. Water is now plentiful, but occasional power outages mean you should take a torch. When winds are too strong, boats won’t risk the open-sea journey back to Crete, so always allow a little extra time just in case.
Sarakiniko Studios ( 28230 42182; www.gavdo studios.gr; d/tr studio incl breakfast €50/60), above Sarakiniko beach, has comfortable studios, plus new villas sleeping up to five (€80 to €100). Phone ahead for port pick-up or walk 20 minutes north from the port, Karabe.
Boat services to Gavdos vary seasonally, and can take between 1½ and five hours depending on the boat and other stops. The most direct route is from Hora Sfakion on Friday, Saturday and Sunday (€15, 1½ hours). From Paleohora, two weekly boats (increasing to three in high summer) run for €15, though they go via the other southern ports and Hora Sfakion, lengthening the trip.
Only some ferries take cars – enquire ahead if taking one.
Bike and car hire are available at Gavdos’ port or in Sarakiniko, though insurance may not be included.
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KISSAMOS ΚΙΣΣΑΜΟΣ
pop 3820
A sleepy tourist town sustained by agriculture, northwest-coast Kissamos is known primarily for its ferries to Kythira and the Peloponnese. However, it has a decent town beach, and fine beaches lie along the vast Kissamos Bay opposite. The superlative beaches at Falasarna and Gramvousa are also easily accessible from here.
In antiquity, Kissamos was the capital of an eponymous province. However, it later became called Kastelli, after a Venetian castle built here; the authorities intervened in 1966, ruling that confusion with Crete’s other Kastelli (near Iraklio) meant the town should revert to its ancient name. Parts of the castle wall still survive.
Orientation & Information
The port is 3km west of town. In summer, a bus meets ferries; otherwise taxis cost €4 to €6. The bus station’s on the main square, Plateia Tzanakaki; east lies the main commercial street, Skalidi, which has ATM-equipped banks. The post office is on the main through-road. Most tavernas and bars line the seafront promenade.
For online info www.kissamos.net.
Sights & Activities
Archaeological Museum of Kissamos ( 28220 83308; Plateia Tzanakaki; admission free; 8.30am-3pm) Housed in a Venetian-Turkish building on the square, the museum displays local artefacts, including statues, jewellery, coins and an ancient villa’s mosaic floor.
Strata Walking Tours ( 28220 24336; www.stratatours.com) Offers easy day trips (€40 including