Greece - Korina Miller [405]
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LASITHI PLATEAU ΟΡΟΠΕΔΙΟ ΛΑΣΙΘΙΟΥ
The tranquil Lasithi Plateau, 900m above sea level, contains pear and apple orchards, almond and other deciduous trees that change colour in fall. In the 17th century, some 20,000 metal windmills with white canvas sails were built here for irrigation purposes, but only 5000 still stand. Although few are still used, the windmills of Lasithi remain a distinctive and memorable sight as you arrive.
The area’s relative inaccessibility allowed frequent revolts during Venetian and Turkish rule. After a 13th-century rebellion, the Venetians expelled the locals and destroyed their orchards; Lasithi lay abandoned for 200 years, until food shortages led the Venetians to cultivate this fertile area and build the irrigation trenches and wells still used today.
The largest of Lasithi’s 20 villages, Tzermiado (population 750) is a bucolic place with two ATMs and a post office. Although tourists visiting the Dikteon Cave pass through, Tzermiado remains placid. Here Restaurant Kourites ( 28440 22054; mains €7-10) serves wood-oven specialities, like suckling pig with baked potatoes, plus vegetarian options, and offers rooms with balconies (single/double including breakfast €25/40) above the taverna. Free bicycle use is included. The same family also runs a lovely set of stone-built apartments in the abandoned upper village, Argoulias ( 28440 22754; www.argoulias.gr; d incl breakfast €60-80).
Nearby Agios Georgios (pronounced agh-ios ye-or-gios; population 554) is another relaxing spot; here Hotel Maria ( 28440 31774; s/d €20/25) has nicely decorated rooms with weavings and traditional furnishings (though beds are quite narrow). Maria’s nourishing Taverna Rea ( 28440 31209; mains €4.50-8) is on the main street.
Psyhro, the closest village to the Dikteon Cave (adult/child €4/2; 8am-6pm Jun-Oct, 8am-2.30pm Nov-May), has tavernas and souvenir shops, but is prettier than Tzermiado. This cave was where Rhea hid the newborn Zeus from Cronos, his offspring-gobbling father. Excavated in 1900 by British archaeologist David Hogarth, the cave covers 2200 sq metres and features both stalactites and stalagmites. Numerous votives discovered here indicate cult worship; some are displayed in Iraklio’s archaeological museum.
Buses will drop you at Psyhro’s far side; for the cave, walk 1km further uphill. It’s a steep, 15-minute walk to the cave entrance. The fairly rough but shaded track on the right offers great views over the plateau; there’s also a paved (but unshaded) trail next to Chalavro taverna, left of the car park. Alternatively, you can go by donkey (€10 or €15 return).
Opposite the cave, Petros Taverna ( 28440 31600; grills €6-9) has great views from the balcony. The owner also organises Mt Dikti hikes, including camping out under the stars.
Getting There & Away
From Iraklio, daily buses serve Tzermiado (€4.70, two hours), Agios Georgios (€5.10, two hours) and Psyhro. From Agios Nikolaos, buses to Lasithi only go on Sundays, though travel agencies run special cave tours.
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AGIOS NIKOLAOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΝΙΚΟΛΑΟΣ
pop 10,080
Pretty Agios Nikolaos (ah-yee-os nih-ko-laos), is Lasithi’s capital, and enjoys a unique and photogenic setting around a curving harbour connecting to a small lake said to be once bottomless.
‘Agios’ has been a tourist draw since the 1960s, though infrastructure hasn’t really changed since then; the narrow, one-way streets can be vexing for drivers in summer. The town, which boasts five beaches of varying sizes and reasonable nightlife, has always gone in cycles. Nowadays, Agios Nikolaos gets an intriguing mix of Western and Eastern European package tourists, plus some independents and families. With a mix of services, amenities and reasonable prices, it is probably the north coast’s best family holiday destination and serves as a good base for eastern explorations.
Orientation
The bus station (KTEL; 28410 22234) is 800m from the town’s centre at Plateia Venizelou, though the action