Greece - Korina Miller [412]
The east-side bus station is just back from the beachfront. ATMs line the main square.
City Netcafe ( 28420 23164; Kothri 6; per hr €3; 9am-late)
Post office ( 28420 22271; Vitsentzou Kornarou 7; 7.30am-2pm)
www.ierapetra.net Helpful website.
Sights & Activities
Ierapetra’s humble archaeological museum ( 28420 28721; Adrianou (Dimokratias) 2; admission €2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) exhibits headless classical statuary and a superb 2nd-century-AD statue of Persephone. A larnax (clay coffin) from around 1300 BC, decorated with 12 vividly painted panels, is another highlight.
On the waterfront, the early Venetian ‘Kales’ medieval fortress (admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), was strengthened by Francesco Morosini in 1626. Although it’s still closed for restoration, you can appreciate its structure from without.
Ierapetra’s main town beach is near the harbour, while a second beach stretches east from Patriarhou Metaxaki. Both have coarse grey sand, but the main one is shadier.
Sleeping & Eating
Cretan Villa Hotel ( /fax 28420 28522; www.cretan-villa.com; Lakerda 16; d from €40; ) This well-maintained 18th-century house has a great atmosphere, with traditionally furnished, fridge-equipped rooms and a peaceful courtyard. It’s a five-minute walk from the bus.
Portego ( 28420 27733; Foniadaki 8; mezedhes €3-6) Excellent and inexpensive Cretan and Greek cuisine, like lamb in a clay pot with yoghurt, are served at this historic century-old house with a lovely courtyard for summer. The attached bar and kafeneio are good for drinks.
Oi Kalitehnes ( 28420 28547; Kyprou 26; mains €4-8) This unusual backstreet place does great-value organic food. Try the Egyptian owner’s spicy falafel and kebabs.
Napoleon ( 28420 22410; Stratigou Samouil 26; mains €4.50-12) This respected waterfront establishment on Ierapetra’s south side serves excellent fish and Greek and Cretan specialities.
Also recommended:
Coral Apartments (Lambraki; apt €45-60) These fully equipped apartments across town will satisfy families and self-caterers.
Coral Hotel ( 28420 22846; Katzonovatsi 12; d €30) This sister establishment to Ersi, in the quieter old town, is another good accommodation bet.
Ersi ( 28420 23208; Plateia Eleftherias 19; d €35; ) This refurbished central hotel has snug rooms with fridge, TV and sea views.
Getting There & Away
Nine daily buses from Ierapetra’s bus station ( 28420 28237; Lasthenous) serve Iraklio (€9.50, 2½ hours) via Agios Nikolaos (€3.30, one hour) and Gournia (about 25 minutes); seven go to Sitia (€5.40, 1½ hours) via Koutsounari (for camp sites); and seven to Myrtos (€1.80, 30 minutes).
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AROUND IERAPETRA
Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) Γαιδουροσι (Χρυσ)
The tranquil Gaïdouronisi (Donkey Island), marketed as Hrysi (Golden Island), has nice sandy beaches, a taverna, and relaxing Lebanon cedars – the only such stand in Europe.
Regular excursion boats (€15 return) leave Ierapetra’s port in the morning and return in the afternoon. Hrysi can get very crowded, but quiet spots are always available.
Myrtos Μρτος
pop 440
Myrtos (myr-tos), 17km west of Ierapetra, is a fairly authentic coastal village popular with older European travellers. It hasn’t been overdeveloped, thus preserving character. Myrtos makes a relaxing spot, with a decent beach and good eating options.
Prima Tours ( 28420 51035; www.sunbudget.net; internet per hr €3.50) offers internet access.
For overnight stays, try the west-side Big Blue ( 28420 51094; www.big-blue.gr; d/studio/apt €35/60/75; ). You can choose between large, airy and pricey studios with sea views or cheaper ground-floor rooms. All are self-catering. Cretan Rooms ( 28420 51427; d €35), popular with independent travellers, offers traditional-styled rooms with balconies, fridges and shared kitchens.
Myrtos Taverna ( 28420 51227; mains €5-9), attached to an eponymous hotel, offers many mezedhes, including vegetarian dishes. The more touristy Platanos ( 28420 51363; mains €6-8), is set under a giant thatched umbrella below a plane tree.
Seven daily buses go from