Greece - Korina Miller [421]
Marco Polo Mansion (Map; 22410 25562; www.marcopolomansion.gr; Agiou Fanouriou 40-42; d incl breakfast from €90) Set in a 15th-century, carefully restored mansion and bursting with atmosphere, the rooms here have a rustic yet plush feel to them with fabric and furnishings from India and Turkey. Think warm colours, high ceilings and four-poster beds. Right in the heart of the old town, it’s a cool, shady retreat.
TOP END
Nikos & Takis Hotel (Map; 22410 70773; www.nikostakishotel.com; Panetiou 29; d from €150; ) This boutique hotel offers atmospheric, individually decorated rooms. Check out the Moroccan-themed Marokino, with its marble tub, ornately tiled floor and authentic slippers. All rooms have music piped into the bathroom and plush amenities. Breakfast is taken on a banana-tree-shaded patio.
Avalon Boutique Hotel (Map; 22410 31438; www.hotelavalon.gr; Charitos 9; d €300; ) This peaceful oasis has stunningly luxurious rooms that ooze with character. Opt for one with a fireplace or Jacuzzi. All have flat screen TVs and individual furnishing. The lovely garden and rooftop terrace are ideal for serious relaxation.
Eating
BUDGET
Old Town
Avoid the restaurant touts along Sokratous and around Plateia Ippokratous. Hit the backstreets to find less touristy eateries.
Prince Bakery Cafe (Map; Plateia Ippokratous; snacks €1-5; 10am-11pm) Tucked in the corner of the square, this place has a designer feel to it. Sink into the leather seats and tuck into freshly baked breads and pastries or get something to go. There’s a deli for sandwiches, an orange-juicer and a well-stocked bar. If you’re more peckish, go for the sausage plate or grills.
gelaterie.gr (Map; 22410 38925; www.gelaterie.gr; Plateia Ippokratous 1; snacks €3-5) Organic crêpes, smoothies and mountains of ice cream will call to you from across the square. Try a rum-and-banana crêpe or spend ages perusing the smoothie options like Love Potion, Fountain of Youth or Hangover Blaster. There are no tables but the nearby fountain makes a lovely place to slurp and watch the world go by.
O Meraklis (Map; Aristotelous 30; soup €4; 3am-8am) After a night out on the tiles a plate of tripe and entrails soup is what’s needed – according to the Greek hangover cure. That’s pretty much all it serves. An experience you might want to try.
Walk Inn (Map; 22410 74293; Plateia Dorieos 1; mains €3-7; 10am-11pm) With a good mix of tourists hanging out and locals playing chess, this low-key, backpacker-style place serves up homemade pizza, pasta and pita sandwiches.
New Town
Koykos (Map; 22410 73022; Mandilana 20-26; mains €2-8) Popular with Rhodes younger crowds, Koykos is Greek kitsch. From the architecture to the copper-tray-swinging waiters, it would almost be tacky if it weren’t so enjoyable. Crowds huddle around chess and card games while others focus on the savoury pies, seafood dishes, salads and mezes. Accompany your meal with barrel wines, ouzo or retsina. The in-house bakery makes divine sweets and breads for you to take home.
Niohori (Map; 22410 35116; I Kazouli 29; mains €3-8) This essentially nontouristy eatery makes little concession to appearance, but if you’re a meat-lover you’ll forget all about that. The owner is a butcher and serves his own country sausage and veal liver with oil and oregano.
Yachting Club Cafe (Map; 22410 75723; Plateia Alexandrias; snacks €3-10) Slightly pretentious but with lovely sun-filled views across the bay, this is the place to be seen. Everything is rather pricey but very good quality. Come for breakfast and try the brioche, crêpes or flaky croissants, washed down with strong coffee.
Indigo (Map; 6972663100; New Market 105-106; mains €5-12; dinner) Unexpectedly located in the New Market, this small restaurant has colourful tablecloths and Greek traditional dishes with creative salads. Try the house salad with croutons, rocket, walnut and garlic or the hazelnut salad with blue cheese.