Greece - Korina Miller [433]
Elias Rooms ( 22450 22446, 6978587924; www.eliasrooms.com; s/d €30/35, s/d apt €35/40;) As you climb the rather steep stairs to this hotel, you can console yourself knowing that the view is well worth it. The three rooms are small and plain while the apartments have more character, tiled floors and, in one, a traditional raised sleeping area. The friendly owner has lots of info to dole out.
Amarylis Hotel ( /fax 22450 22375; www.amarylis.gr; s/d €30/40; ) These very dated but amazingly spacious rooms are great for families. Many sleep up to four and all have kitchenettes and big balconies.
Hotel Titania ( 22450 22144; www.titaniakarpathos.gr; s/d €40/55; ) With bedspreads so dated they’re almost back in style, these rooms are cramped and overpriced. However, in winter they may be all that’s open. Ask for a sea view or a room facing the courtyard, or put up with the noisy road outside.
Lemon Tree Apartments ( 22450 22081; www.inkarpathos.com/lemontree; s/d €50/60; ) Newly refurbished rooms aren’t huge but they’ve got excellent kitchenettes and big balconies, some with sea views. Doubles have queen-sized beds!
Eating
Amongst the plethora of indistinguishable waterfront establishments are a few gems. Watch for the local speciality, makarounes (homemade pasta cooked with cheese and onions). For self-catering, head to the large supermarket across from the taxi rank.
Pastry Shop ( 22450 22530; Dimokratias; sweets €1-4) With towering stacks of local sweets, Karpathian baklava, ice cream and waffles, this is the place to indulge with the locals, all washed down with fresh juice or coffee. You can also pick up savoury pies for a seaside picnic.
To Helliniko ( 22450 23932; Apodimon Karpathion; mains €4-9; year-round) Popular with locals, To Helliniko offers a fantastic dining experience. With lots of seating but a cosy atmosphere, you’ll be served smoked sardines, Karpathian cheese, stuffed artichokes and goat cooked in tomato purée. Be sure to check out the specials board.
I Anna ( 22450 22820; Apodimon Karpathion; mains €5-9) You’ll quickly forget about the slightly tacky decor as you dig into Pigadia’s freshest fish, caught daily off the owner’s own boats. Try the fisherman’s macaroni with octopus, shrimps and mussels, or the Karpathian sardines in oil.
To Spitikon ( 22450 23675; Dimokratias; mains €7-10) A rustic, family atmosphere and attentive service makes this a popular stop. Traditional dishes are served alongside more unusual options like potatoes stuffed with peppermint and sour cream, spring rolls with crabmeat and bacon, balsamic chicken and kalamari (squid) stuffed with dill and feta. The pizza is slightly greasy but satisfying and can be ordered for takeaway.
Drinking & Entertainment
Beneath the museum you’ll find a new, open-air theatre where music and cultural events are often hosted in summer. For an evening drink, head to the seaside, which is lined with bars and cafes, particularly west of the info kiosk. Try En Plo (cocktails €6; 8am-late), just below the National Bank, for a huge list of cocktails and coffees in a funky, friendly atmosphere. If you’re looking for somewhere to boogie, Heaven Club ( until 1am nightly, Fri & Sat only in winter) offers a free bus service to patrons who want to reach the isolated dance club out of town.
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SOUTHERN KARPATHOS
The south of the island has some sandy beaches and quiet towns to relax in. Scenic walking tracks criss-cross the land; pick up a map in Pigadia.
Ammoöpi Αμμοöπ
If you are seeking sun and sand, plus some of the clearest water for snorkelling in the whole of the Aegean, head for Ammoöpi (amm-oh-oh-pee), 5km south of Pigadia. It’s a scattered beach resort without any real centre, although you’ll find a bus stop and some small shops.
Wind- and kitesurfers head for the broad Afiartis Bay in droves to enjoy some world-class conditions. A further 8km south of Ammoöpi, the bay caters for advanced surfers at the crazily windy northern end (nicknamed ‘Devil’s Bay’) and