Greece - Korina Miller [454]
Hotel Afendoulis ( 22420 25321; www.afendoulishotel.com; Evripilou 1; s/d €30/50; ) The owners of this very relaxed, family-style hotel will make you feel at home. Rooms are a little dated and on the small side but comfortable and quiet. If you opt for breakfast, expect niceties like homemade fig and apricot marmalade, fresh bread and omelettes.
Kosta Palace ( 22420 22855; www.kosta-palace.com; cnr Akti Kountourioti & Averof; d €70; year-round; ) Easily spotted on the harbour’s northern side, these rooms don’t have a lot of character but are spacious and impeccably clean. Some have spectacular harbour views and there’s a cafe and rooftop pool. Very friendly staff; the beach is just a short walk away.
Hotel Maritina ( 22420 23511-3; www.maritina.gr; Vyronos 19; year-round; s/d incl breakfast €50/75; ) The halls may feel a little down-at-heel but the rooms are very comfortable – stylish if anonymous – with lots of amenities and a small balcony. There’s a huge breakfast and very friendly service. Substantial discounts are available out of season.
Kos Aktis Hotel ( 22420 47200; www.kosaktis.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 7; s/d from €140/178; ) You’ll fall asleep to the sound of lapping waves at this boutique hotel, set on a small beach yet close to the town centre. Very plush and very stylish, with flat-screen TVs, amazing tubs with sea views and glass balconies; you’ll be well pampered. Expect big discounts out of season.
Eating
Valia’s Place ( 22420 27877; www.valiasplace.gr; Averof 38; mains €3-6) Hidden behind a giant tree, this place has an old jazz club feel to it, complete with lots of wood, worn leather and old photographs. With a patio on the beach, it’s a popular haunt with locals and often hosts live local folkstyle music. Fill up on drunk chicken, aubergine boureki (pies), salads and sandwiches.
Elia ( 22420 22133; Appelou Ifestou 27; mains €4-8) With their images painted beneath the wooden rafters, you will certainly feel like you’re dining with the gods here. Start with chunky bread and olive pâté and then try the pumpkin balls, grilled vegies with haloumi, pork with mustard and capers or the Byzantine chicken with leek and spices. With local music, bright preserves lining the walls and a decent house wine, this stone building packs in as much atmosphere as flavour and is amazing value for money.
Nick the Fisherman ( 22420 23098; Averof 21; mains €5-12) This lively open-air restaurant is frequented by locals and is a relaxed place to try fresh seafood with a gourmet twist. Dishes like squid stuffed with cheese, seafood spaghetti and mussels with red sauce keep customers coming back.
Avanti ( 22420 20040; Vasileos Georgiou 4; mains €8-14) Ignore the hotel lobby atmosphere, this vaguely classy restaurant serves top-notch Italian-style pizza and pasta. Watch the chefs flip and cook it in the open stone oven. You can also get takeaway.
Hamam Restaurant ( 22420 21444; Diagora; mains €10-20; dinner) Once a traditional Turkish bath, this 16th-century building has become a distinctive dining experience. It’s filled with lots of deep pinks, incense, candles and cushions, a garden lit with twinkly lights and wafting chill-out music. The menu is equally creative with swordfish souvlaki, pork with orange sauce and lots of salads and pastas.
H2O ( 22420 47200; Vasileos Georgiou 7; mains €15-20, snacks €5-10) Away from the hubbub of town, this is where stylish locals come to dine before huge sea views. Exceptionally stylish and ultracool, the food lives up to the decor. Try the linguine with shrimp, peppers and ouzo, or garlic lamb with rosemary and local cheese. Or just opt for an aperitif and classy snacks on the patio.
If you’re self-catering, head to the well-stocked Co-op (Verroiopoulou). For something more organic, including fresh bread and produce, try Papazoylou ( 22420 24668; cnr Megalou Alexandrou & 31 Martiou). At the other end of town, Simply Organic ( 22420 20554; Vasileos Georgiou) has bulk snacks and baby food. For bread, sweets and tempting cakes, visit Pikoilas Bakery