Greece - Korina Miller [475]
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MARATHI ΜΑΡΑΘΙ
Marathi is the largest of Arki’s satellite islets, with a superb sandy beach. Before WWII it had a dozen or so inhabitants, but now has only two families. The old settlement, with an immaculate little church, stands on a hill above the harbour. There are two tavernas on the island, both of which rent rooms. Taverna Mihalis ( 22470 31580; d €30, mains €4-6) is the more laid-back and cheaper of the two, while Taverna Pandelis ( 22470 32609; d €40, mains €4-6) at the top end of the beach is a tad plusher.
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AGATHONISI ΑΓΑΘΟΝΗΣΙ
pop 160
Agathonisi (agh-atho-ni-see) shows up on few travellers’ radar and remains a quiet little getaway isle. Like its neighbours, it’s rocky and dry, has few settlements and little organised entertainment. Accommodation is fine yet simple, food is unfussy but good quality, and there’s little to do other than reflect, read and get ready for the next swim.
Getting There & Away
Agathonisi has regular ferry links with Samos and Patmos. A hydrofoil also links the island with Samos and destinations further south. Ferry agent Savvas Kamitsis ( 22470 29003) sells tickets at the harbour prior to departures. For more information Island Hopping.
Getting Around
There is no local transport, and it’s a steep and sweaty 1.5km uphill walk from Agios Georgios to the main settlement of Megalo Horio; somewhat less to Mikro Horio. From Megalo Horio, the island’s eastern beaches are all within a 3km walk.
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AGIOS GEORGIOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΓΕΩΡΓΙΟΣ
The village of Agios Georgios (agh-ios ye-or-yi-os) is a languid settlement at the end of a protected fjord-like bay, with a curved, pebble beach. Spilia Beach, 900m southwest around the headland, is quieter and better for swimming; a track around the far side of the bay will take you there. A further 1km walk will bring you to Gaïdouravlakos, a small bay and beach where water from one of the island’s few springs meets the sea.
Orientation & Information
Boats dock at Agios Georgios, from where roads ascend right to Megalo Horio and left to Mikro Horio. There is no tourist information, post office, bank or ATM.
The police are in a prominently marked white building at the beginning of the Megalo Horio road.
Sleeping & Eating
In the middle of the waterfront, Pension Maria Kamitsi ( 22470 29003; fax 22470 29101; d €35) has comfortable rooms that are easy to find. Above and behind Glaros Restaurant, Domatia Giannis ( 22470 29062; d/tr €40/50; ) has airy, modern rooms with harbour views.
There’s a handful of harbour-side eateries. Glaros Restaurant ( 22470 29062; mains €4.50-7) serves markakia (feta in vine leaves), grills and fish dishes, all made from predominantly organic produce.
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AROUND AGATHONISI
Megalo Horio is the only village of any size on the island. Sleepy and unhurried for most of the year, it comes to life with the annual religious festivals of Agiou Panteleimonos (26 July), Sotiros (6 August) and Panagias (22 August), when the village celebrates with abundant food, music and dancing.
To the east of Megalo Horio there’s a series of accessible beaches: Tsangari Beach, Tholos Beach, Poros Beach and Tholos (Agios Nikolaos) Beach, close to the eponymous church. All are within easy walking distance although Poros Beach is the only sandy option.
If you’re after a very quiet stay, Studios Ageliki ( 22470 29085; s/d €30/35) in Megalo Horio has four basic but comfortable studios with kitchenettes and stunning views over a small vineyard and down to the port. Eating in the village is limited to the reliable Restaurant I Irini ( 22470 29054; mains €5-6) on the central square, or the Kafeneio Ta 13 Adelfia (mains €3-4) on the square’s south side, serving budget snacks and meals.
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