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for Byzantine and subsequently Ottoman rulers. More recently, Ikaria (ih-kah-ree-ah) became a dumping ground for Communist sympathisers during Greece’s 1946–49 Civil War – the KKE (Greek Communist Party) remains popular on the island today. Intriguingly, Ikaria is named for Icarus, son of Daedalus, the legendary architect of King Minos’ Cretan labyrinth. When the two tried to escape from Minos’ prison on wings of wax, Icarus ignored his father’s warning, flew too close to the sun and crashed into the sea, creating Ikaria – a rocky reminder of the dangers of overweening ambition.

Greek myth also honours Ikaria as the birthplace of Dionysos, god of wine; indeed, Homer attested that the Ikarians were the world’s first wine-makers. Today travellers can enjoy the signature local red here, along with fresh and authentic local dishes in a serene environment far from the crowds; the same is doubly true for Fourni, renowned for its seafood and dotted by isolated sandy coves.

Along with the total tranquillity these islands provide, plenty of activities will keep you busy. Hiking, swimming and cycling are all excellent, while Ikaria’s light-hearted summertime panigyria (festivals; annual celebrations of saints’ days) are truly festive events, involving much food, drink, traditional dance and song – a fun-loving commingling of Orthodox Christianity and Ikaria’s deeper Dionysian roots.

Being somewhat small and remote, Ikaria and the Fourni islands are fairly sleepy out of high season, with most, if not all, accommodation options likely to be closed.

Getting There & Away

AIR

For flight schedules from Ikaria, Island Hopping. Olympic Air ( 22750 22214; www.olympicairlines.com) in Agios Kirykos, and Nas Travel ( 22750 31947) in Evdilos sell tickets. There’s now an airport bus, serving only Agios Kirykos and Faros. Otherwise, use airport taxis (to/from Agios Kirykos, €10).

BOAT

A caïque leaves Agios Kirykos at 1pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Fourni (€4), stopping at Fourni Korseon, the capital, plus Hrysomilia or Thymena. Day-trip excursion boats to Fourni also go from Agios Kirykos and Evdilos (€20).

For ferry and hydrofoil information from Ikaria, Island Hopping. Get tickets in Agios Kirykos at Icariada Holidays ( 22750 23322; depy@ikariada.gr), G&A Ferries ( 22750 22426), or Dolihi Tours Travel Agency ( 22750 23230).

Getting Around

BOAT

Water taxis are helpful for nondrivers, or anyone desiring a good boat ride. Summer daily water taxis go from Agios Kirykos to Therma (€2 return). Heading the other way, there’s a summertime caïque every Monday, Wednesday and Friday from Agios Kirykos to Karkinagri, a southwest-coast fishing village, stopping first at Maganitis and the idyllic Seychelles Beach. During high season, this boat sometimes goes daily, and represents the only realistic way for nondrivers to reach this remote corner of Ikaria.

BUS & TAXI

Theoretically, buses operate on Ikaria, though the system exists more for transporting schoolchildren than tourists. A twice-daily bus from Agios Kirykos to Hrisos Rahes, via Evdilos and Armenistis, operates (€7). If you don’t hire a car, share a taxi; from Agios Kirykos to Evdilos costs around €40, though drivers may use their meter instead.

CAR & MOTORCYCLE

It can be a good idea to hire a car or scooter for travel beyond the main towns (though hitchhiking is still accepted by locals). Try Dolihi Tours Travel Agency ( 22750 23230) in Agios Kirykos, and Aventura Car & Bike Rental (aventura@otenet.gr) in Evdilos and Armenistis.

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AGIOS KIRYKOS ΑΓΙΟΣ ΚΗΡΥΚΟΣ

pop 1880

Ikaria’s capital is a dated but dependable Greek port, with clustered old streets, tasty restaurants, hotels and domatia with the necessary services. It has elementary nightlife and radioactive hot springs, while Xylosyrtis Beach (4km southwest) is the best of Agios Kirykos’ pebble beaches.

Orientation

The ferry quay is 150m south of the town centre; for the plateia (square), turn right onto the main road. Leaving the quay, turn left on the square for the bus stop, just west.