Greece - Korina Miller [49]
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There are more than 300 edible horta (wild or cultivated greens) in Greece, though identifying the full range of edible greens is a dying art. Rare and difficult-to-find mountain greens fetch high prices.
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A variety of cheeses is used in sweet and savoury dishes and appears on every table (above). Greece’s exceptional tangy, thick-strained yoghurt, usually made from sheep’s milk, is rich and flavourful and ideal for breakfast with thick aromatic thyme honey, walnuts and fruit. A Greek staple with a myriad regional variations of pastry and fillings is the pita (pie), the most common being the tyropita (cheese pie) and spanakopita (spinach pie). Typical Greek pasta dishes include pastitsio (a thick spaghetti and meat bake) and the hearty youvetsi, slow-cooked lamb or beef in a tomato sauce with kritharaki (orzo or rice-shaped pasta).
Bread is a mandatory feature of every meal and traditionally used to scoop up food in lieu of a knife. The most common is the white crusty horiatiko (village) loaf.
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DINING OUT
Eating out with family and friends is an integral part of social life, and Greeks eat out regularly regardless of socioeconomic status. Meals are rowdy affairs and most people still prefer the informal, relaxed taverna style of dining, normally sharing a range of dishes. This is why meat and fish are often sold by the kilo, not per portion. (Greeks are fussy about fresh food, especially seafood).
Most restaurants charge for bread and small dips or nibbles served on arrival. Frozen ingredients, especially seafood, are usually indicated on the menu with an asterisk. Service charges are included but it is customary to leave a small tip.
The key to picking a restaurant is to find where locals are eating, rather than ‘tourist’ tavernas (touts and big illuminated photos and signs are a dead giveaway). Hotel recommendations can be tricky as some have deals with particular restaurants or may suggest one run by a relative.
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Acclaimed London chef Theodore Kyriakou sails in search of recipes for A Culinary Voyage Around the Greek Islands, a delectable sequel to The Real Greek at Home and Real Greek Food.
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Try to adapt to local eating times – a restaurant that was empty at 7pm might be heaving at 11pm (for more details see Habits & Customs, Click here).
While there are plenty of stylish upscale eateries in inspiring settings, some of the most memorable meals will be in the most unexpected places, with minimum fuss and ambience. Solo diners remain a curiosity but are looked after. Most tavernas are open all day, but many upmarket restaurants open for dinner only.
Mezedhes & Starters
Greeks love to share a range of mezedhes (appetisers), often making a full meal of them (or adding a main or two). Common mezedhes include dips, such as taramasalata (fish roe), tzatziki (yoghurt, cucumber and garlic) and melitzanosalata (aubergine), keftedhes (meatballs), loukaniko (sausage) and saganaki (skillet-fried cheese).
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WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Bar-restaurant A more recent urban concept, they become incredibly loud after 11pm.
Estiatorio A restaurant, where you pay more for essentially the same dishes as in a taverna or mayireio (below), but with a nicer setting and formal service. These days it also refers to an upmarket restaurant serving international cuisine.
Kafeneio One of the oldest institutions, a kafeneio (coffee house) serves Greek coffee, spirits and little else (though in rural villages it may serve food), and remains largely the domain of men.
Mayireio Specialises in traditional home-style one-pot stews, casseroles and baked dishes