Greece - Korina Miller [494]
The archaeological museum ( 22710 44239; Mihalon 10; admission €2; 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun) contains sculptures, pottery and coins dating from the Neolithic period. Closed at the time of writing, the Byzantine Museum ( 22710 26866; Plateia Vounakiou) occupies a former mosque, the Medjitie Djami, and contains sculptures from the 14th- to 15th-century Genoese occupation.
Within the Kastro’s main gate, the tiny Giustiniani Palace Museum ( 22710 22819; admission Tue-Sat €2, Sun €1; 9am-3pm Tue-Sun) contains restored Byzantine wall paintings, including important 13th-century frescoes.
The Public Gardens make a nice spot for relaxing; in summer Hollywood hits play at an enclosed open-air cinema (tickets €6) nightly at 9pm.
Sleeping
Chios Rooms ( 22710 20198, 6972833841; www.chiosrooms.gr; Leoforos Egeou 110; s/d/tr €25/35/45) An eclectic, hostel-like neoclassical house on the waterfront, Chios Rooms is the inspiration of its owner, native New Zealander Don. Marked by vintage furnishings, traditional rugs and lofty ceilings, the place has real character. More than half of the rooms have private bathrooms (the others have bathrooms separate from the rooms). The rooftop ‘penthouse’ has its own terrace. Having spent over 30 years in Greece, Don has much wisdom to impart about Greek life, and life in general, and will readily do so over a beer; the dude abides.
Rooms Alex ( 22710 26054; Livanou 29; s/d €30/45) A bright roof garden adorned with various flags increases the visibility of this friendly place. If the interior seems dark, imagine you’re in a ship’s hull: kindly owner Alex Stoupas was a sea captain for 21 years, and his lovingly handmade model ships decorate each of the simple but clean rooms. The kapetanios will pick you up for free from the ferry, and speaks English, French and Spanish. Book ahead in summer.
Hotel Kyma ( 22710 44500; kyma@chi.forthnet.gr; Evgenias Handri 1; s/d/tr incl breakfast €71/90/112; ) This century-old converted mansion impresses from the first sight of its central marble stairway (from 1917). The old wing’s rooms live up to this promise, with stately decor, billowing curtains and sea-view balconies with red marble walls (ask for room 29). What makes the Kyma more than just another period hotel is its service; owner Theodoros Spordilis wants you to fall in love with Chios, and solves problems in English, Italian and German. Stays in the Kyma’s sister hotel (opposite) in Kardamyla can be arranged.
Eating
Ouzeri Tzivaeri ( 22710 43559; Neoreion 13; mezedhes €3-8) The sort of food strong enough to soak up ouzo (the Tzivaeri serves 10 kinds) is dished out at this friendly portside eatery. You might need a cast-iron gut to lay into oil-drenched sun-dried tomatoes, grilled cod strips and traditional Chios sausages – but then again, that’s what a good ouzerie is all about.
Mezedopoleion Palaio Petrino ( 22710 29797; Leoforos Egeou; mezedhes €4-7) This well-decorated and friendly place offers great mezedhes, like tyrokafteri (spicy cheese dip) and ktapodi krasato (octopus in wine sauce).
To Meliotiko Ouzeri ( 22710 40407; Neoreion; mains €4-7) The hearty portions served at the Meliotiko, on the port, help you fill your stomach before long ferry trips.
To Tavernaki tou Tassou ( 22710 27542; Livanou 8; mains €6-8) This family-friendly eatery near the sea offers standard taverna fare, Chios’ own Kambos lemonade and an adjoining kid’s land that will help keep restless ones pacified during dinner.
Shopping
Mastihashop ( 22710 81600; Leoforos Egeou 36) Get mastic-based products like lotions, toothpaste, soaps and condiments here.
Mastic Spa ( 22710 28643; Leoforos Egeou 12) Sells mastic-based cosmetics.
Kava Potopoleio ( 22710 23190; Inopionos 4) Find fine wines and myriad European beers in this shop below the Public Gardens.
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CENTRAL CHIOS
North of Chios Town, Vrontados is site of Homer’s legendary stone chair, the Daskalopetra. Immediately south of Chios Town is Kampos, a lush area with