Greece - Korina Miller [500]
Getting Around
Inousses has neither buses nor car hire; ask around for its one taxi.
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PSARA ΨΑΡΑ
pop 420 / area 45 sq km
Celebrated Psara (psah-rah), accompanied by its satellite islet of Antipsara, is one of maritime Greece’s true oddities. A tiny speck in the sea two hours northwest of Chios, this island of scrub vegetation, wandering goats and weird red rock formations has one settlement (also called Psara), a remote monastery and pristine beaches. However, it’s visited mostly by diaspora Greeks and thus remains something of an unknown commodity for foreign travellers. Nevertheless, it’s easily accessible from Chios, and decent accommodation and eating options exist. Free camping on remote beaches is tolerated too (if you can get there).
For an island its size, Psara looms inordinately large in modern lore. The Psariot clans (once owners of around 4000 vessels) became wealthy through shipping, and participated in the 1821–29 War of Independence. However, as in Chios, their involvement sparked a brutal Ottoman reprisal that depopulated the island in 1824 (it’s still commemorated each year). Decades would pass before Psara recovered.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many Psariots put their sailing and fishing skills to use on the high seas, some settling eventually in America and other foreign lands. Their descendents still return every summer, so don’t be surprised if the first person you meet speaks English with a Brooklyn accent.
Orientation & Information
Psara town is tucked within a long bay on the island’s southwest. When you disembark the ferry, straight on is the jagged hill from which the Psariot women and children are said to have hurled themselves during the 1824 Ottoman assault. Right of this hill, a beach with some accommodation and tavernas lies across the water. The central waterfront, stretched out across the bay, has cafes, shops and restaurants. Beyond the harbour’s far side lies Katsounis Beach, with another restaurant.
Behind the waterfront, the small streets conceal houses, two churches and a monument to national hero Konstantine Kanaris (boxed text), the post office and a National Bank of Greece with ATM. There’s an island doctor ( 22740 61277) and police ( 22740 61222) for emergencies, and plenty of hearty sailors. The road towards the Moni Kimisis Theotoukou (12km), and other beaches, is signposted.
Tourist information is scarce, and neither car nor motorbike hire existed at the time of writing (though this may change). In Chios, for general information, ferry tickets and accommodation, contact Masticulture Ecotourism Activities in Mesta, which is also the port agent for boats from Limenas Mesta to Psara. If on Psara, track down the helpful Diane Kantakouzenou at Psara Travel on the central waterfront. In any case, the presence of Greek-Americans in summer and the long foreign experience of Psariot sailors means you’ll find English speakers to assist you.
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THE ADMIRABLE ADMIRAL OF PSARA
The fact that one of modern Greece’s greatest heroes was born on tiny Psara might seem odd to visitors today, but it in fact speaks volumes about the bygone power and prestige of this proud, seafaring island.
One of the dominant figures of 19th-century Greek military and political affairs, Konstantine Kanaris (1793–1877) played a leading role in the fight to liberate Greece from the Ottoman Empire during the 1821–29 War of Independence; the heroic stature thus acquired propelled him, six times, to the position of prime minister, before his death at the age of 84.
Orphaned at an early age, Kanaris (like many of his fellow Psariots) turned to the sea. Working on an uncle’s brig, he acquired sailing skills that would prove handy when Psara affirmed its readiness for revolution on 10 April 1821. The islanders turned their vast commercial sailing fleet into a veritable navy. Under leaders like Kanaris, the Psariots