Greece - Korina Miller [517]
Agios Efstratios has had a chequered past. Even before the quake, many dissidents and suspected communists were exiled here, including the composer Mikis Theodorakis and poets Kostas Varnalis and Giannis Ritsos.
Sights & Activities
The village beach has dark volcanic sand and warm waters. A 90-minute walk northeast leads to Alonitsi Beach, a long, idyllic strand with intriguing facing islets. Take the track from the village’s northeast side, starting by a small bridge; when it splits, keep right. Lidario Beach, on the west side, is a much tougher walk, so go by local boat to this and other hard-to-reach beaches.
Sleeping & Eating
Book rooms from Limnos with Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency or Theodoros Petrides Travel Agency, or else find domatia upon arrival; only in high summer might things be crowded. The island’s few tavernas offer inexpensive fare and fresh seafood.
Getting There & Away
For ferry and hydrofoil information from Agios Efstratios, Island Hopping. Buy tickets at Myrina Tourist & Travel Agency in Myrina. Bad weather can cause unpredictable cancellations and delays.
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SAMOTHRAKI ΣΑΜΟΘΡΑΚΗ
pop 2720 / area 176 sq km
Lush Samothraki sits contentedly alone in the northeastearn Aegean, halfway between the mainland port of Alexandroupoli and Limnos to the south. This thickly forested island is relatively small, with few settlements, and is rarely visited out of high season, though it does boast one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece in the ancient Thracian Sanctuary of the Great Gods. Also here stands the Aegean’s loftiest peak, Mt Fengari (1611m), from where Homer recounts that Poseidon, god of the sea, watched the Trojan War unfold.
Samothraki’s mountainous interior is totally unpopulated, and full of valleys bursting with massive gnarled oak and plane trees, making it ideal for hiking and mountain biking. Outdoors lovers will especially want to seek out Samothraki’s woodlands waterfalls, which plunge into deep, icy pools, providing cool relief on a hot summer’s day. The island’s remote beaches in the southeast are idyllic and pristine, while the west offers therapeutic hot baths at Loutra (Therma). The main port, sleepy Kamariotissa, is a whimsical fishing village, while the hilly former inland capital, Hora, is bursting with flowers and pretty traditional homes, all overlooking the distant sea.
While the famous electronic music festival seems to have been killed off due to local irritation with its spaced-out guests, the proliferation of safari hats, dreadlocks and Hindu symbols lingers, perpetuating Samothraki’s exotic, jungle vibe. Although the island’s remoteness and poor transport links mean that it’s often forgotten by foreign island-hoppers, devotees of ancient archaeology and outdoors sorts will find this unique and laid-back island very much worth the effort it takes to get here.
Getting There & Away
For ferry and hydrofoil information from Samothraki, Island Hopping. Niki Tours (opposite) in Kamariotissa sells tickets.
Getting Around
BOAT
In summer the tour boat Samothraki ( 25510 42266) circles the island (€20), departing Loutra (Therma) at 11am and returning by 6.30pm. The boat passes sights like the Byzantine castle of Fonias, the Panias rock formations and Kremasto Waterfall, before stopping at 1pm for four hours of swimming and sunbathing at Vatos Beach. A snack bar operates on board. For more information, ask at Petrinos Kipos Taverna in Kamariotissa or call the boat operator.
BUS
In summer 10 buses daily go from Kamariotissa bus station ( 25513 41533) to Hora (€1) and eight to Loutra (Therma; €2) via Paleopolis