Greece - Korina Miller [535]
Sleeping
Book early for July and August, when prices quoted here are nearly double those of the low season. There’s also a quayside kiosk with prices and room pictures. For last-minute accommodation in high season, try the resourceful agents, Sotos & Maria ( 24270 23219, 6974716408; sotos-2@otenet.gr).
Lena’s Rooms (24270 22009; Bouboulinas St; r €55; ) These six double rooms over the owner’s flower shop are airy and spotless, each with fridge and balcony, plus a well-equipped common kitchen and shady, flower-filled veranda.
Villa Orsa ( 24270 22430; fax 24270 21952; s/d/f incl breakfast from €70/80/110; ) Perched well above the old harbour, this classic cliff-side mansion features very comfortable, traditionally styled rooms with balcony views overlooking a secluded bay. A generous breakfast is served on the garden terrace.
Villa Helidonia (Swallows Villa; 24270 21370; 6945686542; apt €75-95; ) This unusually comfortable and secluded lodging sits above the Punta (point), only minutes from town, but a world away otherwise. There are just two apartments (minimum four-night stay), each with full kitchen, satellite TV and overhead fans, along with a fig tree within picking distance. Close by, a hidden snorkelling bay awaits.
Hotel Bourtzi ( 24270 21304; Moraitou 8; www.hotelbourtzi.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €90/130/150; ) On upper Papadiamanti, the swank Bourtzi escapes much of the town noise, and features austere-modern rooms, an inviting garden and two small pools, one just for kids.
Also recommended:
Hotel Meltemi ( 24270 22493; meltemi@skiathos.gr; s/d/f €55/65/95; ) Old-fashioned charmer.
Alkyon Hotel ( 24270 22981; www.alkyon.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €63/84/105; ) Large waterfront lodging.
Eating
Skiathos has more than its share of overpriced and touristy eateries with so-so (etsi-ketsi in Greek) food. Explore the narrow lanes west of Papadiamanti to find exceptions like these:
Taverna-Ouzeri Kabourelia ( 24270 21112; mains €4-9) Poke your nose in the kitchen to glimpse the day’s catch at the only year-round eatery at the old port. The cheerful owner-cooks prepare great fish grills and seafood mezedhes at moderate prices.
Taverna Alexandros ( 24270 22341; Mavrogiali; mains €4-9) Excellent lamb grills, traditional oven-roasted chicken and potatoes, and live acoustic Greek music await at this friendly alleyway eatery under a canopy of mulberry trees.
Taverna Bakaliko ( 24270 24024; Club St; mains €4.50-9) You can’t get much closer to the bay than at this popular eatery, known for well-prepared and well-priced standards like stuffed cabbage leaves, tomato and parsley salad and fish soup.
Taverna Mesogia ( 24270 21440; mains €5-10) Another back street gem, with open kitchen, and summer seating in the narrow lane. Owner Pandelis boasts of his ‘simple and traditional’ cuisine; his grandfather first opened in 1923.
Medousa Pizza ( 24270 23923; Club St; mains €6-8) Just barfing distance from the drink-till-you-drop waterfront clubs, Medousa’s wood-oven pizza is worth a trip at any hour, and they deliver.
Taverna Anemos (Wind; 24270 21003; mains €6-14) Locals know this fine fish taverna up the old harbour steps for its generous portions of fresh cod, lobster and mussels. Best of all, Vassili the cook has probably spent the morning at his other job – fishing and diving for your dinner.
Maria’s Pizza ( 24270 22292; mains €8-15) The pizza is just the beginning at this flower-filled gem above the old port. If you don’t walk inside to see Maria and crew in action, you’ve missed the point. Highlights include stuffed garlic bread,