Greece - Korina Miller [540]
Also recommended:
Hotel Regina ( 24240 22138; www.skopelosweb.gr/regina; s/d incl breakfast €40/55; ) Vaguely Victorian.
Ionia Hotel ( 24240 22568; www.ioniahotel.gr; s/d/tr/f incl breakfast €76/95/114/137; ) Stylish and quiet.
Eating
Just 100m up from the dock, Souvlaki Sq is perfect for a quick bite of gyros or, not surprisingly, souvlaki. Skopelos is known for a variety of plum-based recipes, and most tavernas will have one or two on the menu.
Taverna Ta Kimata ( 24240 22381; mains €5-9) The oldest taverna on the island (and better known by the owner’s name, Angelos) sits at the end of the old quay. Step inside to look over the day’s mayirefta dishes, such as briam (mixed vegies) and octopus with pasta or lamb stifadho (meat cooked with onions in a tomato purée) – both €8.50.
Taverna Englezos ( 24240 22230; mains €7-11) When we asked for a menu at this waterfront prize, the owner-waiter laughed, saying ‘I am the menu!’ Great grills at good prices – half a chicken on the spit for €7. Summer meals often end with fresh fruit, on the house.
To Perivoli Restaurant ( 24240 23758; mains €7-12) Just beyond Souvlaki Sq, Perivoli promises excellent Greek cuisine in an elegant courtyard setting. Specialities include grilled lamb with yoghurt and coriander, and rolled pork with koromila (local plums) in wine sauce, plus excellent Greek wines.
Anna’s Restaurant ( 24240 24734; Gifthorema; mains €7-19) Look for the palm tree to find this handsome alleyway bistro, serving authentic Skopelos dishes like sautéed veal with plums, or black risotto with cuttlefish.
Other popular spots:
DIA Discount Supermarket ( 24240 24340; 8.30am-9.30pm)
Michalis ( 24240 23591; snacks & cakes €2-5; 9am-11pm) Great tyropita (cheese pie).
Nastas Ouzerie ( 24240 23441; mezedhes €2.50-5, mains €6-10) Opposite Hotel Eleni.
Finikas Restaurant ( 24240 23247; mains €5-10) Behind Sunrise Villa.
Drinking
Platanos Jazz Bar ( 24240 23661) Near the end of the old quay, this leafy courtyard cafe-bar is open for morning coffee and late-night drinks.
Oionos Blue Bar ( 6942406136) Cosy and cool, little Oionos serves up blues and soul along with over 20 brands of beer and single malt whiskies at last count.
Mercurios Music Café-Bar ( 24240 24593; ) This snappy veranda bar above the waterfront mixes music, mojitos and margaritas.
For excellent coffees, juices and free wi-fi access, grab a soft chair at either Anemos Espresso Bar ( 24240 23564; ) or its waterfront neighbour, En Plo Café-Bar ( 24240 23405; ).
Shopping
Gray Gallery ( 24240 24266, 6974641597) Works by island and visiting artists are featured in this hole-in-the-wall fine-arts gallery.
Ploumisti Shop ( 24240 22059) Browse this attractive shop for excellent ceramics, handmade jewellery, icons, silk scarves, small paintings and Greek music.
Entertainment
Ouzerie Anatoli ( 24240 22851; 8pm-2am, summer only) For mezedhes and traditional music, head to this breezy outdoor ouzerie, high above the kastro. From 11pm onwards you will hear traditional rembetika music sung by Skopelos’ own exponent of the Greek blues and master of the bouzouki, Georgos Xindaris.
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GLOSSA & LOUTRAKI ΓΛΩΣΣΑ & ΛΟϒΤΡΑΚΙ
Glossa, Skopelos’ other settlement, is a whitewashed delight, and the upper square is a good place to get a feel for the entire village.
From the bus stop by the large church, a road winds down 3km to the low-key ferry port of Loutraki, with several tavernas and domatia; a smaller lane leads nearby to the business district, with a bank ATM, pharmacy, excellent bakery and a few eateries. A considerably shorter kalderimi (cobblestone path) connects both villages as well. Fans of the movie Mama Mia! (with Meryl Streep) can start their pilgrimage in Glossa to reach the film’s little church, O Yiannis sto Kastri (St John of the Castle).
Loutraki means ‘small bath’ and you can find the remains of ancient Roman baths, with details