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Greece - Korina Miller [552]

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something for adventure seekers, culture vultures and beach bums alike. Devastating earthquakes and the formative hands of such occupiers as the Venetians, French and British, have shaped the architecture of the islands while Italy, especially, has inspired a unique Ionian cuisine. In Corfu Town you can admire British neoclassical palaces, drink beneath Parisian-style arcades and wander through Venetian alleyways. Yet, on all the islands, the seductive spirit of Old Greece survives, in Byzantine churches and in village plateies (squares) shaded by bougainvilleas and plane trees, or beneath a taverna’s vine-covered canopy amid the scent of jasmine.

The islands are, of course, overwhelmed by conspicuous tourism in countless beach resorts, but it is still possible to get off the beaten track to isolated swimming coves, to wander across rugged mountains, or to seek out the dreamy silence of lonely hamlets. Cultural adventurers can explore fortresses, ancient churches and Homeric sites and can visit numerous museums and art galleries of great quality. Outdoor addicts can hike, cycle, windsurf and scuba dive and everyone can enjoy some of the finest food and drink in Greece amid the reassuring spirit of Ionian filoxenia (hospitality) and friendliness.

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HIGHLIGHTS

Hike through History The Venetian, French and British buildings of Corfu Town

Stop the World Walking through the ancient olive groves of Paxi and the mountains of Ithaki

The Gourmet Option Treat yourself to the leading restaurants of Fiskardo and Corfu Town

Wild ‘n’ Wet Windsailing at Vasiliki and sea kayaking on Kefallonia

Best Beaches From the busiest on Corfu and Zakynthos to the quieter joys of Lefkada’s west-coast beaches, such as Porto Katsiki

POPULATION: 223,150

AREA: 2432 SQ KM

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History

The origin of the name ‘Ionian’ is obscure, but it’s thought to derive from the goddess Io. As yet another of Zeus’ paramours, Io fled the wrath of a jealous Hera (in the shape of a heifer), and happened to pass through the waters now known as the Ionian Sea.

If we are to believe Homer, the islands were important during Mycenaean times; however, no traces of palaces or even modest villages from that period have been revealed, though Mycenaean tombs have been unearthed. Ancient history lies buried beneath tonnes of earthquake rubble – seismic activity has been constant on all Ionian islands.

By the 8th century BC, the Ionian Islands were in the clutches of the mighty city-state of Corinth, which regarded them as stepping stones on the route to Sicily and Italy. A century later, Corfu staged a successful revolt against Corinth, which was allied to Sparta, and became an ally of Sparta’s arch enemy, Athens. This alliance provoked Sparta into challenging Athens, thus precipitating the Peloponnesian Wars (431–404 BC). The wars left Corfu depleted and it became little more than a staging post for whoever happened to be holding sway in Greece. By the end of the 3rd century BC, the Romans ruled the Ionian Islands. Following the decline of the Roman Empire, the islands saw the usual waves of invaders fastening on Greece. After the fall of Constantinople, the Ionian Islands fell under the control of Venice.

Corfu was never fully a part of the Ottoman Empire, in spite of sporadic and violent visitations. Lefkada was under Turkish control, however, except for occasional Venetian retrenchment, from 1479 until 1684 when Venice finally won back control of the island.

Venice fell to Napoleon in 1797 and two years later, under the Treaty of Campo Formio, the Ionian Islands were allotted to France. In 1799 Russian forces wrested the islands from Napoleon, but by 1807 they were his again. The all-powerful British could not resist meddling, and in 1815, after Napoleon’s downfall, the Ionian Islands became a British protectorate under the jurisdiction of a series of lord high commissioners.

British rule was oppressive but the British constructed roads, bridges, schools and hospitals, established trade links, and developed agriculture and industry.

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