Greece - Korina Miller [567]
There’s an Internet Café (Koutroubi; per hr €1.50), just off 8th Merarchias.
Sights
Housed in the modern cultural centre at the western end of Agelou Sikelianou is the Archaeological Museum ( 26450 21635; adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun). It contains island artefacts spanning the Palaeolithic Age to the late Roman periods. The prize exhibit is a 6th-century-BC terracotta figurine of a flute player with nymphs.
Works by icon painters from the Ionian school and Russia dating back to 1500 are displayed in an impressive collection of post-Byzantine icons ( 26450 22502; Rontogianni; admission free; 8.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sat, 6-8.15pm Tue & Thu). It’s in a classical building and also houses the public library off Ioannou Mela.
The 14th-century Venetian Fortress of Agia Mavra ( 9am-1.30pm Mon, 8.30am-1pm Tue-Sun) is immediately across the causeway. It was first established by the crusaders but the remains mainly date from the Venetian and Turkish occupations of the island. Moni Faneromenis, 3km west of town, was founded in 1634, destroyed by fire in 1886 and later rebuilt. It houses a museum ( 9am-1pm, 6-8pm Mon-Sat) with ecclesiastical art from around the island. The views of the lagoon and town are also worth the ascent.
Sleeping
Hotel Santa Maura ( 26450 21308, fax 26450 26253; Dorpfeld; s/d/tr incl breakfast €55/70/86; ) A decent hotel with a mix of rooms, all in pleasantly pale decor. The rooms onto Dorpfeld overlook a busy evening scene.
Pension Pirofani ( 26450 25844; fax 26450 24084; Dorpfeld; d/tr €85/100; ) There’s a colourful character to this small hotel and its stylish rooms, all in lush colours and with sparkling facilities. There’s even tea- and coffee-making kit.
Ionian Star Hotel ( 26450 24762; www.ionion-star.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €100/115/130; ) Comfortable, light and spacious rooms mark out this business-class hotel that overlooks an attractive open area just in from the waterfront. The breakfasts are filling and there’s a bar and big lounge.
Eating & Drinking
Faei Kairos ( 26450 24045; Golemi; mains €4.50-11) Unashamed nostalgia for the good old days of cinema defines this excellent eatery on Lefkada Town’s waterfront. The eye-catching motifs go well with such treats as spetsofai, local sausage in a tomato sauce, or rigamato, pork in cream and oregano sauce or fish plates for one or two.
Ey Zhn ( 69746 41169; Filarmonikis 8; mains €9-13) ‘Live Well’ is the name here. Backstreet rather than scenic, but with an attractive interior, the food is excellent, from the filling starters such as mushroom risotto to a seafood paella for two at €18, or shrimps in garlic sauce. Evenings only.
Also recommended on the Golemi strip and with similar prices are the ouzeries Frini Sto Molo ( 26450 24879) and Burano ( 26450 26025), both offering well-prepared Greek classics.
Stylish bars and cafes line the western side of the waterfront; Karma (Dorpfeld), at the start of Dorpfeld, is the place to be seen. Plateia Agiou Spyridonos is crammed with cafes and crowds.
Self-caterers can pick up supplies from the supermarket (Golemi) next to the bus station or from the well-stocked bakery (Ioannou Mela 182).
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EAST COAST & SURROUNDS
Lefkada’s east coast has seen heavy tourist development over the years with the main focus at Nydri, once a fishing village but now a crowded strip of tourist shops and with not much of a beach. You can escape inland, however, to another world of scattered villages, local tavernas and pleasant walks. From Nydri itself there is another escape seaward on cruises to the islets of Madouri, Sparti, Skorpidi and Skorpios, plus Meganisi. Numerous excursions go to Meganisi and stop for a swim near Skorpios (€15 to €25), and some visit Ithaki and Kefallonia as well (€20). Helpful Borsalino Travel ( 26450 92528; borsalin@otenet.gr; Nydri) on the main street can organise just about everything.
Amblers