Greece - Korina Miller [571]
International
In high season there are regular ferries between Sami and Bari (€45, 12 hours) in Italy. To get to other ports in Italy, take the ferry first from Sami to Patra.
Tickets and information can be obtained from Vassilatos Shipping ( 26710 22618; Antoni Tristi 54, Argostoli), opposite the port authority, and from Blue Sea Travel ( 26740 23007; Sami), on Sami’s waterfront.
BUS
Four daily buses connect Kefallonia with Athens (€37.10, seven hours), via Patra (€21, four hours) using the various ferry services (to/from Argostoli, Sami and Poros) to the mainland.
For information contact the KTEL bus station ( 26710 22276/81; kefaloniakteltours@yahoo.gr; A Tristi 5, Argostoli) on the southern waterfront in Argostoli. The office produces an excellent printed schedule.
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IONIAN ON THE VINE
The Ionian Islands would not be the same without wine and Kefallonia especially has a reputation for outstanding vintages, most notably from the unique Robola grape. High in the mountains southeast of Argostoli, at the heart of verdant Omala Valley, is the winery of the Cooperative of Robola Producers of Kefallonia ( 26710 86301; www.robola.gr; Omala; 9am-8.30pm Mon-Fri Apr-Oct, 7am-3pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar) Here, grapes from about 300 individual growers are transformed into the yellow-green Robola, a dry white wine of subtle yet lively flavours. The Robola is said to have been introduced by the Venetians and its wine was a favourite of The Doge. It grows exuberantly on high ground and the light soils, wet winters and arid summers of Kefallonia are ideal for its cultivation. Other varieties of grape enhance the viniculture on Kefallonia. A visit to the cooperative includes wine tasting.
A smaller and very distinguished winery is Gentilini ( 6932718730; tastings 10.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat Jul-Aug, tours & tastings 5.30-8.30pm Tue, Thu, Sat Jun–mid-Sep). Here, in a charming setting, a range of superb wines, including the scintillating Classico, is produced. The winery is 2km south of Argostoli on the airport road and you can also arrange visits by appointment.
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Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The airport is 9km south of Argostoli. There’s no airport bus service; a taxi costs around €15.
BOAT
Car ferries run hourly (more frequently in high season) from 7.30am to 10.30pm between Argostoli and Lixouri, on the island’s western peninsula. The journey takes 30 minutes, and tickets cost €1.80/4.50/1.20 per person/car/motorbike.
BUS
From Argostoli’s KTEL bus station ( 26710 22281, 26710 25222) on the southern waterfront there are 11 buses daily heading to the Lassi Peninsula (€1.40), with four buses to Sami (€4), two to Poros (€4.50), two to Skala (€4.50) and two to Fiskardo (€5). There’s a daily east-coast service linking Katelios with Skala, Poros, Sami, Agia Evfymia and Fiskardo. No buses operate on Sunday.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
The major resorts have plenty of car- and bike-hire companies. A very reliable local company is Greekstones Rent a Car ( 26710 42201; www.greekstones-rentacar.com) They deliver to the airport and within a 15km radius of their base at Svoronata (7km from Argostoli, near the airport). Europcar ( 26710 42020) has an office at the airport.
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ARGOSTOLI ΑΡΓΟΣΤΟΛΙ
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Argostoli is a hugely likeable and lively town. It suffered enormous damage during the 1953 earthquake and was not rebuilt in its former Venetian splendour. Today, its style is one of broad boulevards and pedestrianised shopping streets lined with the chunky, light-coloured buildings typical of Mediterranean urban architecture of the later 20th century. The central focus is an attractive, if overlarge, square, Plateia Valianou, that has drawn some life away from the long waterfront.
Orientation & Information
The main ferry quay is at the northern end of the waterfront and the bus station is at its southern end. Plateia Valianou, the large palm-treed central square, is a few blocks in from the waterfront off 21 Maïou, and its nearby surrounds. Other hubs are pedestrianised Lithostrotou,