Greece - Korina Miller [581]
With transport, you can reach the far southwest of the island where, beyond the very traditional village of Keri, a road leads past a taverna boasting the allegedly biggest Greek flag and flagpole in the country to Cape Keri and its lighthouse above sheer cliffs, where some care should be taken on paths that descend to the very abrupt cliff edge.
Fascinating and sometimes happily confusing roads lead north from here through beautiful wooded hill country where the welcoming locals sell honey and other seasonal products. The way leads to appealing west coast coves, such as Limnionas or Kambi and to such inland gems as Kiliomeno whose church of St Nikolaos features an unusual roofless campanile. The bell tower of the church of Agios Leon was formerly a windmill. Louka is a lovely village that seems more northern European, with its surrounding woodland and lush greenery. The hamlet of Exo Hora has a collection of dry wells and what is reputed to be the oldest olive tree on the island. Volimes is the unashamed sales centre for all traditional products.
North of Zakynthos Town the east coast is lined with resorts but the further north you go, the more remote and lovely the island becomes until the road begins to run out at the ferry point and small resort of Agios Nikolaos, where development is slight. Carry on beyond and you reach the breezy Cape Skinari from where boats leave for the coastal Blue Caves, sea-level caverns that pierce the limestone coastal cliffs. The boats enter the caves, where the water is a translucent blue. The boats also go to the famous Shipwreck Beach, whose photos grace virtually every tourist brochure about Zakynthos, in Navagio Bay, about 3km west of Volimes at the northwest tip of the island. It’s overhyped, inevitably, and definitely over patronised by excursion boats. There’s a precariously perched lookout platform (signposted between Anafonitria and Volimes). Potamitis Trips ( 26950 31132; www.potamitisbros.gr) offers worthwhile trips in glass-bottomed boats from Cape Skinari (Blue Caves only €7.50, Shipwreck Beach and Blue Caves €15).
Sleeping
Earth Sea & Sky can arrange short- or long-term stays in villas and cottages around the Vasilikos Peninsula – book through Ionian Eco Villagers ( UK 0871 711 5065; www.relaxing-holidays.com). Alternatively, you could try your luck for a spontaneous booking with the same company at its wildlife information kiosk in Gerakas.
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AT LOGGERHEADS
The Ionian Islands are home to the Mediterranean’s loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta), one of Europe’s most endangered marine species. The turtles bury their eggs on large tracts of clean, flat sand, unfortunately the favoured habitat of basking tourists. The implications are obvious.
Zakynthos hosts the largest density of turtle nests in the Ionian – an estimated 1100 along the 5km Bay of Laganas. During hatching time (July to October), surviving hatchlings emerge after a 60-day incubation period in the sand. Bizarrely, wooden frames with warning notes attached are placed by conservation agencies over the buried hatching sites, often alongside the sunbeds and windbreaks of tourists. Many of the nests are destroyed by sun brollies and bikes. Young turtles often don’t make it to the water – they are often disoriented by sunbeds, noise and lights.
Conservation lobbyists have clashed with local authorities, tourist operators and the government. In 1999, following pressure from the EU, the Greek government declared the Bay of Laganas area a national marine park. Strict regulations were put in force regarding building, boating, mooring, fishing and water sports in designated zones.
All designated nesting beaches are completely off-limits between dusk and dawn during the breeding season (May to October). Despite this, dozens of illegal bars and tavernas operate in the area, illegal umbrellas and sunbeds are rented out to tourists, and sightseeing boats ‘guarantee’ turtle sightings and inevitably get too close to the creatures, an intrusion that causes stress at a crucial point in the turtles’ breeding