Greece - Korina Miller [68]
On the fourth day, explore the central market and the Keramikos site, stopping for lunch in Thisio. Take the tram along the coast and walk or swim at a beach, or take a trip along the coast to the Temple of Poseidon. If you’ve stayed in the centre all day, dine at Mikrolimano harbour or experience summer nightlife at Athens’ beach bars.
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In extreme cases, drivers have accelerated meters or switch them to night rate (tariff 2 lights up) during the day. Some will also often add their tip to the price they quote. Check the extra charges for airport pick-ups and tolls, which are set and must be displayed in every taxi.
The best way to protect yourself is to record the taxi’s number plates and ask for a receipt – they are obligated to provide one and most have electronic receipt machines installed (though many do not work). If you do have a dispute, call the police ( 100), insist the driver takes you to the local police station to sort it out, or take the driver and taxi’s registration number and report them to the tourist police. A pilot taxi complaint service ( 1019) was also in operation at the time of research.
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SIGHTS
Acropolis
The Acropolis (High City; Map; 210 321 0219; adult/concession €12/6; 8.30am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar; ) is the most important ancient site in the Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, it stands sentinel over Athens, visible from almost everywhere within the city. Its monuments of Pentelic marble gleam white in the midday sun and gradually take on a honey hue as the sun sinks, while at night they stand brilliantly illuminated above the city. A glimpse of this magnificent sight cannot fail to lift your spirits.
Inspiring as these monuments are, they are but faded remnants of Pericles’ city. Pericles spared no expense – only the best materials, architects, sculptors and artists were good enough for a city dedicated to the cult of Athena. The city was a showcase of lavishly coloured colossal buildings and of gargantuan statues, some of bronze, others of marble plated with gold and encrusted with precious stones.
There are several approaches to the site. The main approach from Plaka is along the path that is a continuation of Dioskouron. From the south, you can walk along Dionysiou Areopagitou to the path just beyond the Odeon of Herodes Atticus to get to the main entrance, or you can go through the Theatre of Dionysos entrance near the Akropoli metro station, and wind your way up from there. Anyone carrying a backpack or large bag (including camera bags) must enter from the main entrance and leave bags at the cloakroom.
Arrive as early as possible, or go late in the afternoon, as it gets incredibly crowded. Wear shoes with rubber soles – the paths around the site are uneven and slippery. People in wheelchairs can access the site via a cage lift rising vertically up the rock face on the northern side. Those needing assistance should present at the main entrance.
The Acropolis admission includes entry to other sites (boxed text).
HISTORY
The Acropolis was first inhabited in Neolithic times. The first temples were built during the Mycenaean era in homage to the goddess Athena. People lived on the Acropolis until the late 6th century BC, but in 510 BC the Delphic oracle declared that it should be the province of the gods.
After all the buildings on the Acropolis were reduced to ashes by the Persians on the eve of the Battle of Salamis (480 BC), Pericles set about his ambitious rebuilding program. He transformed the Acropolis into a city of temples, which has come to be regarded as the zenith of classical Greek achievement.
Ravages inflicted upon them during the years of foreign occupation, pilfering by foreign archaeologists, inept renovations following Independence, visitors’ footsteps, earthquakes and, more recently, acid