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€4/2; 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; ) presents a priceless collection of Christian art, dating from the 3rd to 20th centuries. Thematic snapshots of the Byzantine and post-Byzantine world – a part of Greek history that is often ignored in favour of its ancient past – are exceptionally presented in the expansive multilevel underground galleries (the final galleries opened in 2009). The collection includes icons, frescoes, sculptures, textiles, manuscripts, vestments and mosaics. The museum is housed in the grounds of the former Villa Ilissia, an urban oasis recently transformed into a culture park, with an open-air amphitheatre, outdoor exhibitions and ancient ruins, including the Peisistratos aqueduct and the adjacent site of Aristotle’s Lyceum.

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ART RENAISSANCE Victoria Kyriakopoulos

The contemporary arts scene in Athens is flourishing, with a proliferation of private galleries and art spaces, and major international arts events.

‘In the last five years Athens has developed a very international arts scene,’ says artist Angelo Plessas, now based in Athens after four years in New York.

‘If you are a Greek artist you don’t need to move abroad to Berlin or London or a big metropolitan city any more. Everything has changed. We have the Biennial, the Museum of Contemporary Art, we have the big collections here.

‘It’s not as big as New York or London, but the good galleries and museums here are bringing a lot of international big names so you can get a snapshot of what is happening universally. Artists who come here from abroad comment that Athens is fresh and lots of things are happening all the time. I believe Athens could become the Berlin of the south.’

Plessas is exhilarated by the city’s new creative energy and, like many artists of his generation, has established an international career, showing in galleries abroad and online in the cutting-edge neen art scene.

‘It’s not an easy place, but Athens has a good energy and that’s the most important thing for an artist. People here are passionate and that’s good in terms of creativity and discussion. The thing with Athens is that you either love it or hate it. If you want things politically correct and everything to be in order then you will hate it. If you want to explore more unpredictable things, the city has this energy, this craziness.’

Art Events

Art-Athina (www.art-athina.gr) International contemporary art fair held in May.

Athens Biennial (www.athensbiennial.org) Held every two years in various venues from June to October.

ReMap (www.remap.org) Parallel event to the Biennial, exhibiting in abandoned buildings around Keramikos and Metaxourghio.

Art Galleries

AMP (Map; 210 325 1881; www.a-m-p.gr; Epikourou 26, cnr Korinis, Psyrri; noon-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)

Bernier-Elliades (Map; 210 341 3935; Eptahalkou 11, Thisio; 10.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)

Breeder (Map; 210 331 7527; www.thebreedersystem.com; Iasonos 45, Metaxourghio; noon-8pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat)

Rebecca Camhi Gallery (Map; 210 523 3049; www.rebeccacamhi.com; Leonidou 9, Metaxourghio; by appointment)

You can find a full list of galleries and art spaces at www.athensartmap.net; alternatively, pick up an Athens Contemporary Art Map at galleries and cafes around town.

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KANELLOPOULOS MUSEUM

This excellent museum (Map; 210 321 2313; Theorias 12, cnr Panos, Plaka), in a 19th-century mansion on the northern slope of the Acropolis, houses the Kanellopoulos family’s extensive collection, donated to the state in 1976. The collection includes jewellery, clay-and-stone vases and figurines, weapons, Byzantine icons, bronzes and objets d’art. It was due to reopen in 2009 after a major refurbishment.

NATIONAL ART GALLERY

Greece’s premier art gallery (Map; 210 723 5857; Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou 50; adult/concession €6/5; 9am-3pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun; ) presents a rich collection of Greek art spanning four centuries from the post-Byzantine period. A new wing housing its permanent collection explores the key art movements