Greece - Korina Miller [83]
MONI KAISARIANIS
Nestled on the slopes of Mt Hymettos, 5km from the city, the 11th-century Moni Kaisarianis (Monastery of Kaisariani; Map; 210 723 6619; Mt Hymettos; admission €2; 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun, grounds Tue-Sun 8.30am-sunset) is a peaceful sanctuary. The walled complex has a central court surrounded by the kitchen and dining rooms, the monks’ cells and the bathhouse. The domed katholikon (main church) is built in cruciform style. The church was built on the foundations of an ancient temple, and its dome is supported by four columns from the ancient temple. Most of the well-preserved frescoes date back to the 17th and 18th centuries. On weekends the complex can be swarming with picnickers
Take bus 224 from Plateia Kaningos (at the north end of Akadimias) to the terminus. From here it’s about 30 minutes’ walk to the monastery – or just get a taxi. The site was due to reopen in 2009 after renovations.
ATHENS’ FIRST CEMETERY
This cemetery (Map; Anapafseos, Trivonianou, Mets; 7.30am-sunset), the resting place of many famous Greeks and philhellenes, is a fascinating and peaceful place to explore.
Most of the tombstones and mausoleums are lavish in the extreme. Some are kitsch and sentimental; others are works of art created by the foremost 19th-century Greek sculptors, such as Halepas’ Sleeping Maiden on the tomb of a young girl.
Among the cemetery’s famous residents is the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann (1822–90), whose mausoleum is decorated with scenes from the Trojan War.
HELLENIC COSMOS
To put ruins and museums into perspective, take a virtual-reality trip to ancient Greece at the futuristic Foundation for the Hellenic World (off Map; 212 254 0000; www.hellenic-cosmos.gr; Pireos 254, Tavros; adult €6-10, child €3.90-8, day pass €15; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sun Jun-Sep, closed for 2 weeks mid-Aug; ), about 2km from the city centre. The Tholos virtual-reality theatre takes you on an interactive tour of the Ancient Agora or allows you to get a feel for life in ancient Athens. The Kivotos time machine has 3D floor-to-ceiling screens with a live guide taking you through ancient Olympia and Miletus.
Take bus 049 or 914 from Omonia. From October until May call ahead or check the website for opening hours.
PLANETARIUM
Athens boasts the world’s largest and most technologically advanced digital Planetarium (off Map; 210 946 9600; www.eugenfound.edu.gr; Leoforos Syngrou 387, Palio Faliro; adult €6-8, concession €4-5; 5.30-8.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am-8.30pm Sat & Sun, closed mid-July–late Aug). The 280-seat planetarium, with a 950-sq-metre hemispherical dome, offers 3D virtual trips to the galaxy, as well as IMAX movies and other high-tech shows. There is simultaneous narration in English (€1). The planetarium is part of the Eugenides Foundation, a progressive scientific and educational institution.
Take the metro to Syngrou-Fix then bus 550 or B2 to the Onassio stop, and take the underpass across the road. Enter from Penteli.
Beaches
Athens is the only coastal European capital with beaches within easy distance of the city centre, along the coast towards Glyfada. This is where Athenians cool off and where much of the summer nightlife takes place.
The better beaches are privately run and charge admission (between €4 and €15 per adult). They’re usually open between 8am and dusk, May to October (later during heatwaves), and have sun beds and umbrellas (additional charge in some places), changing rooms, children’s playgrounds and cafes.
The flashiest and most exclusive summer playground is Astir Beach ( 210 890 1621; www.astir-beach.com; admission Mon-Fri €15, Sat & Sun €25; 8am-9pm), with water sports, shops and restaurants. You can even book online.
The following can be reached by tram and then buses from Glyfada or Voula:
Akti Tou Iliou ( 210 985 5169; Alimo; adult/child Mon-Fri €6/3, Sat & Sun €8/4; 8am-8pm)
Asteras Beach ( 210 894 1620; www.balux-septem.com; Glyfada; adult/child Mon-Fri €6/3, Sat & Sun €7/3; 10am-7pm)
Yabanaki ( 210 897 2414; www.yabanaki.gr; Varkiza; adult/child