Greece - Korina Miller [86]
Turn right at the mosque into Pandrosou. This relic of the old Turkish bazaar is full of souvenir shops. The street is named after King Cecrops’ daughter, Pandrosos, who was the first priestess of Athens. Pandrosou leads to the Athens Cathedral (27). The cathedral has little architectural merit, but next to it stands the smaller, more historically significant, 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios (28; Click here), known as the Little Metropolis. Just past this church, turn right into Agias Filotheis, which is lined with buildings belonging to the Greek Church. The mansion with the elaborate gold doors is the residence of the Archbishop of Greece.
Emerging at Adrianou, walk ahead and turn left at Hatzimihali Angelikis, where you can visit the free Centre of Folk Art & Tradition (29; Click here), worth seeing to check out a beautifully maintained Plaka mansion.
Cut through to busy Kydathineon’s Plateia Filomousou Eterias, which is packed with cafes and outdoor tavernas. Turn left and a little way along you will come to the Greek Folk Art Museum (30; Click here), opposite the Church of Metamorphosis (31).
Continue along Kydathineon and turn left into Nikis, heading all the way to Ermou, where you can turn left into Athens’ main shopping drag, or right to return to Syntagma.
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COURSES
If you are serious about learning Greek, several places offer intensive courses for beginners and various proficiency levels. Most of the places listed below run three- to 10-week immersion courses (from €400 to €600) as well as conversation, business and grammar courses.
Athens Centre (Map; 210 701 2268; www.athenscentre.gr; Arhimidous 48, Mets)
Hellenic American Union (Map; 210 368 0900; www.hau.gr; Massalias 22, Kolonaki)
Hellenic Cultural Centre (Map; /fax 210 523 8149; www.hcc.edu.gr; Halkokondyli 50, Omonia)
For information on language courses on the islands, Click here.
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ATHENS FOR CHILDREN
Athens is short on playgrounds but there is plenty to keep kids amused. The shady National Gardens have a playground, duck pond and mini zoo. There is also a fully enclosed shady playground in the Zappeio Gardens. At the War Museum, kids can climb into the cockpit of a WWII plane and other aircraft in the courtyard.
The Hellenic Children’s Museum (Map; 210 331 2995; Kydathineon 14, Plaka; admission free; 10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) is more of a play centre, with a games room and a number of ‘exhibits’ – such as a mock-up of a metro tunnel – for children to explore, as well as workshops ranging from baking to bubble-making. Parents must be on hand to supervise their children at all times.
The Museum of Greek Children’s Art (Map; 210 331 2621; Kodrou 9, Plaka; admission free; 10am-2pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun, closed Aug) has a room set aside where children can let loose their creative energy.
Further afield, the enormous Allou Fun Park & Kidom (off Map; 210 425 6999; cnr Leoforos Kifisou & Petrou Rali, Renti; admission free, rides €2-4; 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 11am-1am Sat & Sun) is Athens’ biggest amusement park complex. Kidom is aimed at younger children.
The Attica Zoological Park (off Map; 210 663 4724; www.atticapark.gr; Yalou, Spata; adult/3-12yr €14/10; 9am-sunset) has an expanding collection of big cats, birds, reptiles and other animals, including a monkey forest and Cheetahland, where you can walk through a tunnel. The 19-hectare site is near the airport. Take bus 319 from Doukissis Plakentias metro station.
You can always escape the heat and amuse the kids with a virtual-reality tour of ancient Greece at the Hellenic Cosmos, or explore the universe at the impressive Planetarium.
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TOURS
Athens Sightseeing Public Bus Line (Bus Route 400; tickets €5) stops at 20 key sites, such as the Acropolis, National Archaeological Museum and Panathenaic Stadium. Buses run half-hourly between 7.30am and 9pm from June to September, half-hourly between 9am and 6pm in October and May, and hourly between 10am