Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [102]
Sheraton Waikiki (922-4422, 866-716-8109; www.sheraton-waikiki.com; 2255 Kalakaua Ave; r $380-735; ) This chain megahotel looms over the historic Royal Hawaiian Hotel with modern utilities and is ginormous enough to accommodate package-tour groups and conferences. Facing the beach, a ‘superpool’ amphibious playground will keep the kiddos entertained. Online booking discounts of 50% are commonly available; otherwise, don’t bother.
Royal Hawaiian Hotel (923-7311, 866-716-8110; www.royal-hawaiian.com; 2259 Kalakaua Ave; r $380-855; ) The aristocratic Royal Hawaiian was Waikiki’s first true luxury hotel and now it looks better than ever, thanks to multimillion-dollar renovations. The pink Moorish-style building is all ambience, with airy walkways and soaring ceilings. Rooms in the historic section maintain classic appeal, though many prefer ocean-view rooms in the modern high-rise tower. In-room wired internet and limited common-area wi-fi cost extra.
Halekulani (923-2311, 800-367-2343; www.halekulani.com; 2199 Kalia Rd; r $425-750; ) With modern sophistication, this resort hotel lives up to its name, which means ‘House Befitting Heaven.’ It’s an experience of gracious living, not merely a place to crash. Peaceful rooms are equipped with modern gadgets, such as high-tech entertainment centers, deep soaking tubs and expansive lanai. Eclectic luxury suites include one personally designed by Vera Wang. Warning: this is one of O′ahu’s few resorts where evening dress codes are in effect.
Also recommended:
Aston Waikiki Beach Tower (926-6400, 877-997-6667; www.astonhotels.com; 2470 Kalakaua Ave; 1br & 2br $495-815; ) Full-service apartment-style hotel in the heart of Waikiki, perfect for family reunions.
Trump International Hotel & Tower (212-299-1062; www.trumpwaikikihotel.com; 223 Saratoga Rd; ) Luxury high-rise boasts an infinity pool and apartment-style suites with panoramic windows, full kitchens and marble baths. Call for room rates.
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EATING
Early-bird specials and mediocre buffets are still the standard in Waikiki. Along Kalakaua Ave, suburban chains like the Cheesecake Factory overflow with hungry tourists, although a few beachfront hotel restaurants are run by star chefs. A block farther inland, Kuhio Ave is filled with cheap grazing choices, especially ethnic takeout joints to fuel an afternoon of surfing. On the outskirts of Waikiki, you can dig up delicious neighborhood eateries, drive-ins and bakeries along Kapahulu Ave heading toward the university. Otherwise, you’re better off getting out of Waikiki and eating in other neighborhoods of Honolulu (Click here).
Budget
Yes, you can eat cheaply in Waikiki, if you know where to look.
Leonard’s (737-5591; 933 Kapahulu Ave; pastries 75¢-$2; 6am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) This Portuguese bakery with a vintage 1950s neon sign is known throughout O′ahu for its malasadas, a type of sweet, fried dough rolled in sugar. Try the haupia malasada, with coconut-cream filling, and you’ll be hooked.
Waiola Bakery & Shave Ice II (949-2269; 525 Kapahulu Ave; items $2-4; 7:30am-6pm) Developing a shave-ice palate is a point of pride for the locals. This modest storefront delivers superfine shave ice and a large assortment of add-ons including azuki beans, condensed milk, mochi (sticky-sweet Japanese pounded-rice cakes) and island-style li hing mui crack seed.
Tokkuri Tei (739-2800; 611 Kapahulu Ave; shared dishes $3-15; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri, 5:30pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 5-10pm Sun) Under-the-radar neighborhood izakaya offers upbeat contemporary versions of Japanese standards. Paper lanterns hang overhead and bookcases store customers’ private bottles of sake and shōchū (potato liquor). Try the house spider poke with fish roe, grilled kushiyaki skewers or soft-shell crab drizzled with sweet-chili vinaigrette.
Rainbow Drive-In (737-0177; 3308 Kanaina Ave; meals $4-7; 7:30am-9pm) Started by an island-born US Army cook after WWII, this classic Hawaii drive-in wrapped in rainbow-colored neon is a throwback to another