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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [104]

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dishes $6-14, mains $11-26; 5pm-2am) Inside a divey-looking storefront, boisterous groups of friends devour an endless list of pupu crafted here with island flair, like baby-back ribs with Maui onions or kalua pig nachos with wonton chips. For dinner, pastas and steaks take a backseat to market-fresh seafood like Chinese-style steamed opakapaka (pink snapper).

Ono Hawaiian Food (737-2275; 726 Kapahulu Ave; combination plates $12-16; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) This little diner concentrates on homegrown Hawaiian fare. In between crowded, aging tables and sports paraphernalia, locals and tourists shoehorn themselves in for kalua pig, lomilomi salmon, or laulau (meat wrapped in ti leaves and steamed) served with poi or rice. Arrive early to avoid a long wait. Cash only.

Irifune (737-1141; 563 Kapahulu Ave; mains $12-18; 11:30am-1:30pm & 5:30-9:30pm Tue-Sat) Follow local families to this cramped eatery, decorated with Japanese country kitsch and serving up creative appetizers like gyōza (fried dumplings) stuffed with tofu and cream cheese. Top dinner choices are garlic ′ahi, seared ever so gingerly, and a variety of combination plates. BYOB (beer only).

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (931-6286; 3rd fl, Waikiki Beach Marriott Resort, 2552 Kalakaua Ave; mains $16-35; 5:30-10pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) From the mind of one of Hawaii’s hottest chefs, DK Kodama, this Pacific Rim fusion menu rolls out everything from traditional sashimi to Dungeness crab ramen with black-truffle butter sauce. Tables on the torchlit veranda enjoy prime sunset views. Queue for early-bird specials, available from 5pm to 6pm on Sunday and Monday, or enjoy 50% off all food after 10pm on Friday and Saturday nights.

Hula Grill (923-4852; 2nd fl, Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach, 2335 Kalakaua Ave; breakfast à la carte items $2-7, dinner mains $17-34; breakfast & dinner) Come early to score a table on a wraparound lanai and watch the sun set over the beach. Reward yourself with ‘wrong island’ ice teas and island-style pupu such as mango-barbecued ribs. Breakfast offers some refreshingly healthy, if pricey options.

Okonomiyaki Chibo (922-9722; 3rd fl, Royal Hawaiian Center, 2201 Kalakaua Ave; lunch $10-20, dinner mains $18-38; lunch Mon-Sat, dinner daily) With a sleek dark-wood interior, this high-end Japanese teppanyaki grill is a standout for its customized chef-made okonomiyaki (savory cabbage pancakes). Go traditional and order one made with buta (pork) or ika (squid), or splurge on steak, scallops and prawns. Lunch is a fair deal, but dinner is overpriced.

Top End

Reservations are recommended for all of these restaurants, except the buffets.

Nobu Waikiki (237-6999; Waikiki Parc Hotel; 2233 Helumoa Rd; shared dishes $2-48, mains $32-40; 5:30-10pm Sun-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sat, lounge till midnight) Iron Chef Matsuhisa’s Japanese fusion restaurant has made a big splash in Waikiki, where his hybrid dishes taste right at home. Broiled black cod with miso sauce, Japanese-Peruvian tiradito (ceviche) and seafood tartar are among Nobu’s signature tastes. The chic attached lounge serves appetizers and ‘sake-tinis.’

Roy’s – Waikiki Beach (923-7697; 226 Lewers St; mains $28-40; dinner) This latest incarnation of Roy Yamaguchi’s island-born chain is perfect for a flirty date or just celebrating the good life with friends. The ground-breaking chef doesn’t actually cook in the kitchens here, but his signature misoyaki butterfish, blackened ′ahi, macnut-encrusted mahimahi and deconstructed sushi rolls are always on the menu. Molten-chocolate soufflé for dessert is a must.

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TOP PICKS – HONOLULU & WAIKIKI FOODIE FAVES

Roy’s – Waikiki Beach (left)

Alan Wong’s (Click here)

Town (Click here)

Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas (Click here)

Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar (left)

Duc’s Bistro (Click here)

Chef Mavro (Click here)

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Hau Tree Lanai (921-7066; New Otani Kaimana Beach Hotel, 2863 Kalakaua Ave; dinner mains $30-44; breakfast 7-10:45am daily, lunch 11:45am-2pm Mon-Sat & noon-2pm Sun, dinner 5:30-9pm daily) A seductive setting under

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