Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [125]
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Ahupua′a o Kahana State Park
In spite of political controversy, this park (237-7766; www.hawaiistateparks.org; Kamehameha Hwy; admission free; sunrise-sunset) is currently open to visitors, although wandering around may feel like intruding on someone’s private home. Look for the signposted entrance about a mile north of Crouching Lion Inn.
Starting from the orientation center, the gentle, 1.2-mile Kapa′ele′ele Trail runs along a former railbed and visits both a fishing shrine and the bay-view Keaniani Kilo lookout, then follows the highway back to the park entrance. Starting 1.3 miles farther up the rough, unpaved valley road, the Nakoa Trail is a 2.5-mile rain forest loop that crisscrosses Kahana Stream, passing by a swimming hole next to an artificial dam. Both trails can be very slippery and muddy when wet.
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PUNALU′U
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This inconspicuous seaside community is just another string of houses along the highway that most visitors drive by en route to the North Shore. But it’s close enough to the surf scene, and offers more affordable accommodations. Punalu′u Beach Park has a long, narrow swimming beach with an offshore reef that protects the shallow waters in all but stormy weather. Be cautious of strong currents near the mouth of the stream and in the channel leading out from it, especially during high surf.
Sleeping & Eating
Punalu′u Guesthouse (946-0591; 53-504 Kamehameha Hwy; dm $20-23) Cheap without being a flophouse, this three-bedroom house has been converted into an informal hostel. Because it’s a cozy situation, the hostel prescreens potential guests, so most folks come here after a stay at HI–Honolulu (Click here), and walk-ins are not accepted. There’s a communal kitchen, an on-site house ‘parent’ and guests often get together at dinnertime.
Pat’s at Punalu′u (Map;255-9840; http://patsatpunaluu.org; 53-567 Kamehameha Hwy; ) Largely residential and looking a bit neglected on the outside, this oceanfront condominium houses privately owned units that are spacious, if well worn. There’s no front desk; instead, rental arrangements are handled either by realty agents or private owners, including through Vacation Rentals by Owner (www.vrbo.com).
Shrimp Shack (256-5589; 53-352 Kamehameha Hwy; mains $8-16; 11am-5pm) Next door to Ching’s general store, you’ll find this sunny yellow truck which sells mochi (sticky-sweet Japanese pounded-rice cakes) for dessert. Order some deep-fried coconut shrimp imported from Kaua′i or more seafood plate lunches, from snow-crab legs to mussels, all made to order and served piping hot.
For condo rentals at Pat’s:
Paul Comeau Condo Rentals (293-2624, 800-467-6215; www.patsinpunaluu.com; studio/1br/2br $100/150/250, plus cleaning fee $50-150; ) Three-day minimum stay; weekly and monthly discounts available.
Papaya Paradise (261-0316, 262-1008; http://kailuaoahuhawaii.com; studio d $125, plus cleaning fee $75; ) Kailua B&B owners (Click here) rent two studio condos at Pat’s.
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HAU′ULA
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Aside from a couple of gas pumps, a general store and a 7-Eleven store, the only point of interest in this small coastal town is the stone ruins of Lanakila Church (c 1853), perched on a hill next to newer Hau′ula Congregational Church. Across the road is shallow-rocky-bottomed Hau′ula Beach Park. Roadside camping is allowed, though it’s mostly the domain of folks living out of their cars; for county permits, Click here.
Behind Hau′ula’s soggy commercial strip is a scenic backdrop of hills and majestic Norfolk pines. The Kaipapa′u Forest Reserve offers two secluded hiking trails with ocean vistas that head deeper into the Ko′olau Range. The signposted trailhead is at a bend in Hau′ula Homestead Rd, just 0.25 miles above the Kamehameha