Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [146]
On the windward side of Mauna Kea, along the northeastern Hamakua Coast, around 300in of rain falls annually – but this water usually gets squeezed out on the mountain’S flanks, at around 2500ft, and both the coast and the summit remain clear. In fact, only about 15in of precipitation falls on the summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, mostly as winter snow capping the peaks with white.
In January the average daily high temperature is 65°F at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, 79°F in Hilo and a toasty 81°F in Kailua-Kona. August temperatures rise only 5°F or so. Nighttime lows are about 15°F less. For more on climate, Click here.
The National Weather Service Hilo provides recorded forecasts for the Big Island (961-5582) and for island water conditions (935-9883). Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park (985-6000) has recorded information on eruption activity and viewing points.
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NATIONAL, STATE & COUNTY PARKS
Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park (Click here) is one of the Big Island’S main attractions and one of the USA’S most interesting and varied national parks. Over a million visitors come annually to (hopefully) witness flowing lava and to drive and hike this lava and rain-forest wonderland.
The Big Island is notable for its wealth of ancient Hawaiian sights, which are preserved in several national and state historical parks. The most famous is Pu′uhonua o Honaunau (Click here), an ancient place of refuge in South Kona. But Native Hawaiian history and moody landscapes can be found at remote Mo′okini Heiau (Click here) in North Kohala; kayak-friendly Kealakekua Bay (Click here), where Captain Cook met his demise; the restored fishponds of Kaloko-Honokohau (Click here) near Kailua-Kona; and the imposingly majestic Pu′ukohola Heiau (Click here).
Many of the island’S finest beaches lie within parkland, such as the world-renowned Hapuna Beach (Click here). The beaches within Kekaha Kai State Park (Click here) are also idyllic, though only Manini′owali is accessible by paved road.
Other parks worth seeking out on the Windward Coast are Kalopa (Click here), preserving a native forest; Laupahoehoe (Click here), site of a tsunami disaster; and Akaka Falls (Click here), the prettiest ‘drive-up’ waterfalls in Hawai′i. Though not a designated park, Waipi′o Valley (Click here) shouldn’t be missed.
Camping
Hawai′i has enough good campgrounds that you can enjoyably circumnavigate the island in a tent, plus several highly memorable backcountry camping opportunities. Some parks also offer simple cabins.
NATIONAL PARKS
Hawai′i Volcanoes National Park has two good, free, drive-up campgrounds, some A-frame cabins for rent and great backcountry camping. Click here for details.
STATE PARKS
Three state parks allow camping: highly recommended Kalopa State Park (Click here), which has well-kept facilities, and both MacKenzie State Recreation Area (Click here) and Manuka State Wayside Park (Click here), neither of which is well cared for, nor recommended. Permits are required; the fee is $5 per family campsite.
There are recommended cabins in three state parks. Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area (Click here) has six A-frame cabins sleeping up to four people ($20 per night). Kalopa State Park (Click here) has two group cabins sleeping up to eight people ($55 per night). Mauna Kea State Recreation Area (Click here) maintains five cabins sleeping up to six people ($35 per night, Friday to Sunday only).
To make a reservation and obtain a permit, contact the Division of State Parks (Map; 974-6200; www.hawaiistateparks.org/parks/hawaii; Suite 204, 75 Aupuni St, PO Box 936, Hilo, HI 96721; 8am-3:30pm Mon-Fri), which accepts reservations in order of priority: first walk-ins, then mail requests, then phone requests – though the phone is rarely answered and long-distance calls aren’t returned. The website has an application form you can print and mail in, and the office has a binder with photos of campsites