Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [148]
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BIG ISLAND SURF BEACHES & BREAKS Jake Howard
Because Hawai′i is the youngest island and its coastline is still quite rugged, it’S often assumed there isn’t much in the way of surfable waves. As a result, places like O′ahu and Kaua′i have stolen the surf spotlight, but archaeologists and researchers believe that Kealakekua Bay (Click here) is probably where ancient Polynesians started riding waves. Today a fun little left-hander called Ke′ei breaks near the bay.
Unlike its neighboring islands, whose north and south shores are the primary center of swell activity, the east and west shores are the Big Island’S focal points. Because swells are shadowed by the other islands, as a general rule the surf doesn’t get as big here. The Kona Coast offers the best opportunities, with north and south swell exposures, as well as the offshore trade winds. Kawaihae Harbor (Click here) is surrounded by several fun, introductory reefs near the breakwall, while further south, near Kekaha Kai State Park (Click here), is a considerably more advanced break that challenges even the most seasoned surfers. If you have a 4WD vehicle or don’t mind an hour-long hike, be sure to check out heavy reef breaks like Mahai′ula (Click here) and Makalawena (Click here). They break best on northwest swells, making the later winter months the prime season. A hike or 4WD is also necessary to reach Pine Trees (Click here) at Keahole Point.
On East Hawai′i, just outside of Hilo (Click here), are several good intermediate waves. Richardson Ocean Park is a slow-moving reef break that’S great for learning, and just west of town is Honoli′i, a fast left and right peak breaking into a river mouth. Further up the Hamakua Coast is Waipi′o Bay (Click here); while access to the beach requires a long walk or a 4WD vehicle, the waves and scenery are worth the effort.
Top bodyboarding and bodysurfing spots include Hapuna Beach (Click here), White Sands Beach (Click here) and the beaches at Kekaha Kai State Park (Click here).
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To watch or join outrigger canoe racing, contact the Hawai′i Island Paddlesports Association (www.kaikahoe.org) for its January to May race schedule. And don’t miss the Queen Lili′uokalani outrigger race (www.kaiopua.org) on Labor Day weekend.
SAILING
Most catamaran trips focus on fishing, snorkeling, or whale watching, with sailing itself a pleasant add-on. If sailing is your main pleasure, try Kamanu Charters (Click here), and ask around at Kailua-Kona’S Honokohau Harbor (Click here). Another company to consider is Maile Charters (800-726-7245; www.adventuresailing.com; 3½hr cruises from $1300), which sails out of Kawaihae.
SNORKELING
The best snorkeling is south of Kailua-Kona: head straight for Kahalu′u Beach Park (Click here) in Keauhou; Two-Step (Click here), north of Pu′uhonua o Honaunau; and Kealakekua Bay (Click here).
That said, there are wonderful places elsewhere: north of Kailua, check out the Kekaha Kai beaches (Click here), the tide pools of Puako (Click here), and Mahukona (Click here). Hilo’S beaches (Click here) have some good spots, and don’t miss the Kapoho Tide Pools (Click here) in Puna.
Snorkel gear rentals are plentiful, but consider buying your own good-quality gear. Rental prices generally run from $7 to $10 per day and $15 to $45 per week, depending on kit and quality. Equally plentiful are snorkeling tours (typically from $80 to $90), which depart mainly from Keauhou Bay, Kailua Pier or Honokohau Harbor, all near Kailua-Kona.
SURFING
Big Island surf spots often have rugged lava-rock shorelines that require nimble maneuvering. Another hindrance is wana (sea urchins), which abound at some beaches. For an overview of the main spots, see the boxed text, above. For a Big Island surf report, check out Hawaii Surf News (www.hawaiisurfnews.com).
You can rent a surfboard from local surf shops ($15 to $25 per day) or stands near beaches ($30 per day; about $20 for two hours). Most places provide (or can connect you with) lessons,