Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [164]
Car
Ali′i Dr, in downtown Kailua-Kona, gets very congested in the late afternoon and evening. Free public parking is available in a lot between Likana Lane and Kuakini Hwy. Shopping centers along Ali′i Dr usually provide free parking for patrons behind their center.
The highways running past Kailua experience horrific commuter gridlock. Avoid southbound Hwy 19 and Hwy 190 between 4pm and 6pm, and northbound Hwy 11 between 6am and 8am. Radar speed traps are common on Hwy 19 between Kailua and the airport.
Bus
The free Hele-On Bus (Click here) and the Honu Express (Click here) both make stops within Kailua-Kona.
Taxi
Call ahead for pickups from the following companies:
Aloha Taxi (329-7779; 5am-10pm)
D&E Taxi (329-4279; 6am-9pm)
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AROUND KAILUA-KONA
South of Kailua-Kona is the upscale Keauhou resort area, while in the mountains to the southeast is the dropped-in-amber town of Holualoa, now an intriguing artists community.
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KEAUHOU RESORT AREA
Keauhou has no town center, unless you count the shopping mall. Rather, it is a collection of destinations: Keauhou Harbor for boat tours, Kahalu′u Beach for snorkeling and surfing, two resorts and condos for sleeping, a farmers market and good restaurants, and a significant ancient Hawaiian settlement.
Information
The following are in the Keauhou Shopping Center (Map; 322-3000; www.keauhoushoppingcenter.com; cnr Ali’i Dr & Kamehameha III Rd):
Bank of Hawaii (322-3380; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) Has a 24-hour ATM.
Longs Drugs (322-5122; 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun) A drugstore with a pharmacy.
Post office (800-275-8777; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat)
Sights & Activities
ST PETER’S CHURCH
The ‘Little Blue Church’ is one of Hawai′i’S most photographed, and a favorite for weddings. The striking sea-green and white building sits almost in Kahalu′u Bay.
Built in the 1880s, St Peter’S was moved from White Sands Beach to this site in 1912. It now sits on an ancient Hawaiian religious site, Ku′emanu Heiau. Hawaiian royalty, who surfed Kahalu′u Bay, prayed for good surf at this temple before hitting the waves.
KAHALU′U BEACH PARK
One of the island’S most thrilling and easy-access snorkeling spots, Kahalu′u Bay (Click here) is a giant natural aquarium loaded with colorful marine life. It’S the classic medley of rainbow parrotfish, silver needlefish, brilliant yellow tangs, and Moorish idols, plus green sea turtles often swim in to feed and rest on the beach. An ancient breakwater, which according to legend was built by the menehune (Hawaii’S mythical race of little people), is on the reef and protects the bay.
This is a favorite surf spot that, when conditions are mellow, is ideal for beginners and for learning to stand up paddle; when surf is high, strong rip currents make it challenging. Talk to a lifeguard if you’re unsure.
One thing not to come for is peace and quiet. The tiny salt-and-pepper beach is hemmed in on all sides: by the busy highway, by the adjacent resort, by the covered pavilion with picnicking families, and by the throngs of snorkelers constantly padding in and out of the water. Come early; the parking lot can fill up by 10am. Facilities include showers, rest rooms, picnic tables, grills and snorkel and locker rentals. A lifeguard is on duty.
ANCIENT HEIAUS & HISTORICAL SITES
Kahalu′u Bay is adjacent to the Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort (opposite), which sits where a major ancient Hawaiian settlement once existed. An easy path leads from the beach into and around the protected sites – the front desk has displays and a map brochure.
At the north end are the ruins of Kapuanoni, a fishing heiau, and a replica of the summer beach house of King Kalakaua next to a spring-fed pond, once either a fishpond or a royal bath. To the south are two major heiaus. The first, Hapaiali′i Heiau, was built 600 years ago and in 2007 was completely restored