Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [172]
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CAPTAIN COOK
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As Hwy 11 winds southward, as the greenery gets thicker and the ocean views more compelling, as businesses ebb and flow, it can be hard to tell where towns start and stop. Captain Cook is signaled by the historic Manago Hotel, which began in 1917 as a restaurant catering to salesmen on the then-lengthy journey between Hilo and Kona. The stout building remains a regional touchstone for travelers and residents alike. Captain Cook is also where you access Kealakekua Bay, and the area offers a great selection of B&Bs and down-home cooking.
Sights
KEALAKEKUA BAY STATE HISTORICAL PARK
Kealakekua Bay is a wide, calm bay shouldered by a low lava point to the north, tall reddish pali (cliffs) in the center and miles of green mountain slopes to the south. The bay is both a state park and a marine-life conservation district, and it is famous for its rich variety of sea life, including spinner dolphins.
Napo′opo′o Rd, off Hwy 11, winds 4.5 miles down to the bay, leaving behind the lush foliage of the rainier uplands for the perpetually sunny coast; never assume that rain on the highway means rain on the bay. The road ends at the parking lot for Napo′opo′o Beach and Wharf, the kayak launch (opposite). Veer right at the base of Napo′opo′o Rd to reach public rest rooms and Hiki′au Heiau, a large platform temple. In front of the heiau, a stone beach makes a moody perch from which to observe the stunning scenery, but the surf is too rough to swim. Veer left at the parking lot for Manini Beach and Ke′ei Bay.
At the bay’S north end is the protected Ka′awaloa Cove (opposite), a good diving and legendary snorkeling spot; most access this by sea, but you can also hike. The fish and coral are absolutely wonderful, and those with iron stomachs can swim out 100ft to hang over the blue abyss. The cove is easily identified by the Captain Cook Monument, a 27ft white obelisk marking the spot where Captain Cook was killed in 1779 (Click here). In 1877, as an act of diplomacy, the Kingdom of Hawai′i gifted the 16 sq ft of land the monument stands on to Britain; as the grafitti scars make clear, not everyone has been pleased with this. Behind the monument are the ruins of the ancient village of Ka′awaloa; avoid climbing on this sacred site.
Pali Kapu o Keoua, or the ‘sacred cliffs of Keoua,’ were named for a chief and rival of Kamehameha I. Numerous caves in the cliffs were the burial places of Hawaiian royalty, and it’S speculated that some of Captain Cook’S bones were placed here as well. High, inaccessible caves probably still contain bones.
On its southern shoreline, Kealakekua Bay is rocky and exposed to regular northwest swells, making for poor swimming and snorkeling conditions. However, Manini Beach makes a highly scenic, shady picnic spot, and confident swimmers use a small break in the lava (to the right) to access the water. Surfers head to the point just south of Manini Beach. The park has portable toilets and picnic tables. From Napo′opo′o Rd, turn left on Pu′uhonua Rd, then right on Kahauloa Rd; after a quarter-mile, turn right on Manini Beach Rd and park at the blue house.
Further south on Pu′uhonua Rd is attractive Ke′ei Bay, which, while popular with surfers and kayakers, is rough for swimming. To get there, take the very ragged dirt road past the turnoff for Manini Beach (if you reach Ke′ei Transfer Station, you’ve gone too far). If you don’t have high-clearance, park along the dirt road and walk. At the bay, there’S a beach, a small canoe launch and a few shacks, but no facilities – be respectful of residents.
Pu′uhonua Rd continues for several miles south through scrub brush to Pu′uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (Click here).
Activities
SNORKELING
Ka′awaloa Cove, in Kealakekua Bay, is among the island’S (and Hawaii’S) premier snorkeling spots. The water is protected