Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [175]
To get to the trailhead, turn makai off Hwy 11 onto Napo′opo′o Rd; within the first tenth of a mile, park along the road wherever it is safe. To find the trail entrance, count four telephone poles from the start of the road, and it’S makai across from three tall palm trees. The trail is clear and easy to follow going down; when in doubt at a confusing spur, stay to the left. The trail ends at the place where kayaks pull up on the rocks. There are no facilities at the bottom; bring lots of water.
Returning uphill, stay right at the fork (back onto the lava ledge); left is a 4WD road that continues north along the coast for miles.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Kings’ Trail Rides (323-2388, 345-0661; www.konacowboy.com; 81-6420 Mamalahoa Hwy; rides Mon-Fri $135, Sat & Sun $150; 9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Kings’ leads horseback trips to the coastline just north of Kealakekua Bay. Trips include lunch and possibly snorkeling if waters are calm. It’S at the 111-mile marker.
Sleeping
Manago Hotel (323-2642; www.managohotel.com; Hwy 11; s/d $56-61/59-64, with shared bathroom $33/36, Japanese-style $75/78) The Manago is an absolutely classic Hawai′i experience. The shared-bath boarding-house rooms are the same today as they were over 80 years ago (but with more highway noise). A more modern block of motel-style rooms sits behind the historic building; the 2nd and 3rd floors are the hotel’S quietest and enjoy ocean views. All are plain, no-frills, but well-kept rooms, with nothing to disturb your sleep – except for South Kona’S roosters, which don’t seem to understand the concept of crowing only at dawn. It’S between the 109- and 110-mile markers.
Pomaika′i ‘Lucky’ Farm B&B (328-2112, 800-325-6427; www.luckyfarm.com; 83-5465 Mamalahoa Hwy; d incl breakfast $80-105) New owners, a genial father-daughter team from Virginia, have resuscitated this quirky property. One room shares the main house, while attached are two pleasant ‘Greenhouse’ rooms with queen beds and screened windows. Separate and hidden by banana plants, the ‘Barn’ is a charmingly unadorned shack with screened, half-open walls and an outdoor shower; when you’re snuggled under comforters, this is a budget traveler’S jungle fantasy. Families are particularly welcome, and breakfast is a social occasion.
Luana Inn (328-2612; www.luanainn.com; 82-5856 Napo′opo′o Rd; r incl breakfast $180-200; ) Everything about this B&B is spacious, uncluttered and tastefully understated. Furnishings are modern, with muted colors and accent pieces, and all guest rooms have private entrances and stocked kitchenettes. Your hosts are a gracious, attentive young couple who are quite knowledgeable about the island and pride themselves on their gourmet-style breakfast. Best of all, the grassy grounds and sunny circular pool have an unforgettable sweeping view of Kealakekua Bay.
Ka′awa Loa Plantation (323-2686; www.kaawaloaplantation.com; 82-5990 Napo′opo′o Rd; r incl breakfast $125-145, cottage $150, ste $195; ) This rambling plantation home, set in lush jungle gardens with towering mango trees, is one of South Kona’S most romantic stays. Perhaps it’S the dramatic four-poster beds, or the living room fireplace, or the tasteful art and fine linens, or the divine outdoor shower, or the hot tub and Hawaiian steam box. It certainly has to do with the aloha and attention to detail of the hosts. Or maybe it’S just watching the sunset from the wraparound lanai, with seemingly the entire coast below. The suite has the only full bath (it’S a doozy), and a separate cottage has a kitchenette but no views.
Eating
South Kona Green Market (9am-1pm Sun) Across from the Manago Hotel, this is a new farmers market – an interesting mix of organic produce, local specialties