Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [190]
KALAHUIPUA′A HISTORIC TRAIL
This easy trail begins on the inland side of the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, at a marked parking lot opposite the resort’S little grocery store. Pick up a free, self-guided trail map from the concierge desk.
The first part of the trail meanders through a former Hawaiian settlement dating from the 16th century, passing lava tubes once used as cave shelters and a few other archaeological sites marked by interpretive plaques.
The trail then skirts fishponds lined with coconut palms and continues out to the beach, where there’S a thatched shelter with an outrigger canoe and a historic cottage with a few Hawaiian artifacts. Continue southwest past the cottage to loop around the fishpond and back to your starting point – a round-trip of about 1.5 miles.
PUAKO PETROGLYPH PRESERVE
With more than 3000 petroglyphs, this preserve is one of the largest collections of ancient lava carvings in Hawai′i, and it makes for a thought-provoking experience. The simple, linear human figures are among the oldest examples of such drawings in Hawai′i; some date to 1000 AD. The symbols are tantalizingly evocative, but like all ancient petroglyphs, their meaning remains enigmatic.
The trail begins at the mauka end of the Holoholokai Beach parking lot. The initial section is paved and wheelchair accessible, and it leads to a collection of stunning petroglyphs arranged in a circle. The well-marked, extremely dusty trail then leads another 1300yd through a moody kiawe forest to the main site. Here, a basketball court–size field is crammed with etchings and figures like some crazy ancient census. Wear shoes (not rubbah slippahs) and avoid midday, as it gets dry and hot.
Activities
GOLF
Golfers can certainly spoil a good walk on the challenging Francis I’i Brown North & South Courses (885-6655; www.maunalani.com; green fee guest/nonguest $145/210). The South Course has a signature 15th-hole featuring a tee shot over crashing surf. The North Course has a par-three 17th hole within an amphitheater of black lava rock. Some golfers dream their whole lives of playing on carpetlike greens like these.
SPAS
While the husband’S away…the Mauna Lani Spa (881-7922; Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows; massages from $145, facials from $155; treatments 9am-5:30pm) awaits. It’S a visual delight, with extravagant tropical landscaping, a lava-rock sauna and calm pools for water therapy. Treatments are equally elaborate.
The Fairmont Orchid’S Spa Without Walls (887-7540; www.fairmont.com/orchid; Fairmont Orchid; indoor/outdoor massages from $159/169, facials from $145; treatments 8am-7pm) conducts business in alfresco hale hidden amid orchids, coconut palms, waterfalls and lily ponds.
Sleeping
Mauna Lani Bay Hotel & Bungalows (885-6622, 800-367-2323; www.maunalani.com; 68-1400 Mauna Lani Dr; r $445-935, ste from $985; ) The vaulted interior lobby sets the tone, creating an airy, serene space to relax while honu nibble lettuce in lazy pools nearby. The architecture feels a bit retro, but rooms are nicely appointed and positioned (most have ocean views; mountainside rooms are slightly bigger), with first-rate amenities and decor. Attractive baths have sliding wood–shutter doors, and his- and her- vanities. The feeling of aloha is enhanced by the considerate staff, the commitment to Hawaiian culture and the resort’S eco-conscious approach: it makes significant use of solar power, plants drought-resistant grass, uses recycled water for irrigation and participates in a reforestation program. Most basic services (parking, phone, wi-fi etc) are included.
Fairmont Orchid (885-2000, 800-845-9905; www.fairmont.com/orchid; 1 N Kaniku Dr; r $500-900, ste from $1100; ) Rooms at the Orchid are equivalent to the Mauna Lani in terms of amenities, but decor is just that little bit nicer: a medley of warm browns and oranges, classy furnishings, and egregiously nice marble baths with separate tub, shower and toilet. There is a corporate edge to the pampering, but it is an indulgent embrace nonetheless; the resort offers every sort of activity, an