Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [200]
KALAHIKIOLA CHURCH
Protestant missionaries Elias and Ellen Bond built this church in 1855. Unfortunately, large portions of three of the church’S walls crumbled in the 2006 earthquake, and they still await repair. Towering banyan trees and peaceful macadamia-nut orchards surround the church, making this a worthwhile detour.
The church is 900yd up ′Iole Rd, which is on the mauka side of the highway between the 23- and 24-mile markers.
KOHALA YOGA COMMUNITY CENTER
This center (889-0583; Sakamoto Bldg, 55-3877 Hwy 270; drop-in class $15) offers classes in yoga and dance.
KAMEHAMEHA ROCK
Sure, it is just a rock by the side of the road. But if legends are to be believed, Kamehameha carried this rock from the beach below to demonstrate his great strength. Much later, a road crew attempted to move the rock, and it stubbornly fell off the wagon – a sign that it wanted to stay put. Not wanting to upset Kamehameha’S mana, the workers left it in place. The rock is on the mauka side of Hwy 270, on a curve that is just past a small bridge, about 2 miles east of Kapa’au. Just past this, on the cliff above, is the striking green-and-red Tong Building, an old Chinese hall.
Sleeping & Eating
Kohala Club Hotel (889-6793; www.kohalaclubhotel.com; 54-3793 Hwy 270; d $56) These aging plantation-worker cottages hold basic, perfunctory shared-bath accommodations, the equivalent of private rooms at a hostel. They are clean, affordable beds for budget travelers. Look for the sign suspended over a driveway on the makai side, south of mile-marker 23.
Kohala Country Adventures Guest House (889-5663, 866-892-2484; www.kcadventures.com; d $85-135, ste $175; ) This guesthouse surrounded by fruit-filled tropical gardens offers three pleasing rooms with private entrances and homey decor. The smallest has no view, but from the other two you can see Maui on a clear day. The suite is the nicest, with a huge private deck and mini-kitchen. Families could bunk here very comfortably.
Sammy D’S (889-5288; 54-3854 Akoni Pule Hwy; meals $7-9; 11am-8pm Tue-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) This clean, friendly café dishes up no-muss, no-fuss local grinds, plate lunches and sandwiches.
Pico’S Bistro (884-5555; Kenji’S House, Akoni Pule Hwy; mains $9-12; 11:30am-8pm) With a roof-shaded open patio and a teeny kitchen, Pico’S resembles a beachside food stand. But the menu is a gourmet Greek feast – try lamb kebabs, falafel, spanakopita, Greek salad and quiche. Everything is fresh, organic and homemade. Uses biodegradable cutlery and containers.
Shopping
Kohala Book Shop (889-6400; www.kohalabooks.com; Hwy 270; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat) One of the Big Island’S best bookstores (with new, used and rare books), this has a fantastic Hawaiiana collection. Kohala is home to several well-known novelists – like Kiana Davenport and Mia King – and this is their literary gathering place.
Ackerman Galleries (889-5137; www.ackermangalleries.com; Akoni Pule Hwy; 9:30am-6pm) This large upscale gallery has a wide range of authentic crafts, carvings, jewelry and quilts.
Elements (889-0760; www.kahiko.com; 54-3885 Akoni Pule Hwy; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Specializing in locally handcrafted jewelry, Elements is stocked with lots of attractive finery.
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MAKAPALA
After Kapa′au, the highway narrows, sloping and winding deeper into the jungle. A few single-lane bridges add to the sensation that the end of the road is near. The village of Makapala has only a few hundred residents and no town center.
Take in the awesome mana of the North Kohala Coast at Keokea Beach Park (gate 7am-11pm), where reddish-orange cliffs enclose a rock-lined bay. The surf really surges with a west swell, attracting experienced local surfers. Swimming is sketchy due to dangerous shore breaks and strong currents, but a protected boat launch with an envelope of sand provides entry. Run-down facilities include grills,