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Sun, 3:30-9pm daily) Chef/owner Daniel Thiebaut seems to remake the menu at his namesake restaurant every other year. But whatever he serves in the rambling, attractively restored historic building is sure to be good. Happy hour (3:30pm to 5:30pm) is a great start, with tasty pupu and creative cocktails. Lunch is relaxed and informal, while dinner creates a more romantic, special-occasion mood. Thiebaut has a way with seafood, which is always excellent, and the current menu adds curries, steaks, pad thai (Thai noodle stir-fry) and creative pastas.

Merriman’S (885-6822; www.merrimanshawaii.com; Opelo Plaza, 65-1227 Opelo Rd; mains lunch $12-18, dinner $30-45; 11:30am-1:30pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-9pm daily) An innovator of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, chef-owner Peter Merriman created the Big Island’S first gourmet restaurant devoted to organic, island-grown produce and meats. Romance infuses the dining room, and the service is perfect, but the proof is on the plate: Hawaiian- and Asian-influenced dishes like ponzu-marinated mahimahi, wok-charred ahi and Big Island filet steak with Hamakau mushrooms are gems. Merriman’S signature coconut crème brûlée still only wants for two spoons.

The KTA Super Store (885-8866; Waimea Center, 65-1158 Mamalahoa Hwy; 6am-11pm) has ‘plenny’ poke (and a pharmacy).

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ENTERTAINMENT

Kahilu Theatre (885-6017, box office 885-6868; www.kahilutheatre.org; Parker Ranch Center, 67-1186 Lindsey Rd; admission $35-45; showtimes vary) Waimea may not be hopping with nightlife, but it enjoys a first-class year-round slate of dance, music and theater. Past performers at Kahilu have included Chick Corea, Paul Taylor Dance Company, Laurie Anderson, Chanticleer and the Harlem Gospel Choir. A big draw is the annual ′Ukulele & Slack Key Guitar Masters Concert (Click here).

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SHOPPING

Three shopping malls line Hwy 19 through town: Parker Ranch Center (67-1185 Mamalahoa Hwy), where the stop signs say ‘Whoa,’ Waimea Center (65-1158 Mamalahoa Hwy) and Parker Square (65-1279 Kawaihae Rd). The first two have groceries and basics, in addition to gift shops; Parker Square aims for the more discriminating, upscale gift buyer.

Gallery of Great Things (885-7706; www.galleryofgreatthings.com; Parker Sq; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) This standout gallery carries over 200 artists and is crammed with antiques, high-quality art and collectibles from Hawaii, Polynesia and Asia.

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TOP PICKS – GOURMET CUISINE

Hualalai Grille by Alan Wong (Click here)

Merriman’S (left)

Daniel Thiebaut (Click here)

Hilo Bay Cafe (Click here)

Brown’S Beach House (Click here)

Roy’S Waikoloa Bar & Grill (Click here)

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Reyn’S (885-4493; www.reyns.com; Parker Ranch Center; 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) If you want to dress like a local, shop at Reyn’S. Its classic, understated aloha shirts (which use Hawaiian fabrics in reverse) never go out of style.

Giggles (885-2151; Parker Ranch Center; 9am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun) A must for affordable, baby- and kid-size aloha shirts and dresses, plus cool toys and Hawaiian Hello Kitty items.

Crackseed, Etc (885-6966; Hayashi Bldg, Kawaihae Rd; 9:30am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) Need bulk quanitites of that addictive Chinese dried fruit called ‘crack seed’ (Click here)? Get them here. Crackseed also carries a nice selection of gift items, like authentic fishhook carvings and stylish clothes.

Dan DeLuz’S Woods (885-5856; 64-1013 Mamalahoa Hwy; 9am-5pm) The Waimea shop of this famous local woodworker (Click here) contains one-of-a-kind handcarved bowls and sculptures of the highest quality.

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GETTING THERE & AROUND

Waimea-Kohala Airport is south of town, but you aren’t likely to fly there. From Monday to Saturday the free Hele-On bus (Click here) goes from Waimea to Kailua-Kona on its 16 Kailua-Kona route (65 minutes), and to Hilo on its 7 Downtown Hilo route (one hour 20 minutes). The bus stops at Parker Ranch Center.

The drive from Kailua-Kona is 37 very scenic miles along Hwy