Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [209]
Note that the Mauna Kea summit is not a national, state or county park. There are no restaurants, gas stations or emergency services. Weather conditions can change rapidly, and daytime temperatures range from 50°F to below freezing. The summit can be windy, and observatory viewing rooms are just as cold as outside. Bring warm clothing, a heavy jacket, sunglasses and sunscreen. Call the recorded hotline (935-6268) for info on weather and road conditions.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
The Onizuka Visitor Information Station is at 9200 ft, and even here some visitors might experience shortness of breath and mild altitude sickness. At the 13,796ft summit, atmospheric pressure is 60% what it is at sea level, and altitude sickness is common. Symptoms include nausea, headaches, drowsiness, impaired reason, loss of balance, shortness of breath and dehydration. The only way to recover is to descend. Kids under 16, pregnant women, and those with high blood pressure or circulatory conditions should not go to the summit. Nor should you scuba dive within 24 hours of visiting Mauna Kea.
The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly. All hikers and travelers to the summit should stop first at the visitor center for at least 30 minutes to acclimatize before continuing.
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SIGHTS
Onizuka Visitor Information Station
Officially the Onizuka Center for International Astronomy, the center (961-2180; www.ifa.hawaii.edu/info/vis; 9am-10pm) was named for Ellison Onizuka, a Big Island native, and one of the astronauts who perished in the 1986 Challenger space shuttle disaster.
In itself, the Onizuka Visitor Information Station is rather modest, but its one room is packed with information: videos on astronomy, computer feeds and virtual tours of several observatories, and exhibits on the mountain’S history, ecology and geology. The rangers, interpretive guides and volunteers are extremely knowledgeable about astronomy and Mauna Kea’S cultural significance, and they are eager to help with hiking and driving advice.
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THE PLACE BETWEEN HEAVEN & EARTH
On Mauna Kea’S summit, the first snow of winter is falling.
Near the visitor center, Ranger James Keali′i Pihana – known affectionately as ‘Kimo’ – is blocking the frozen road in his pickup and trying to explain to a haole (Caucasian) writer what Mauna Kea means to Hawaiians.
‘To us, Mauna Kea is not “White Mountain,” it is “the heavens.” It is the “Mount of Waikea,” the place between heaven and earth. The Kumulipo tells the creation story of these islands, the first creation of man, and Mauna Kea is the center of our “Bible story.”’
Beneath his stiff ranger cap, long gray hair curls over Kimo’S collar. His dark eyes are intense as his thick laborer’S hands gently conjure visions in the air.
‘Mauna Kea is the home of the snow goddess, Poliahu, Pele’S sister. Ceremonies are still conducted: equinox, solstices, first light, pray to the sun. In the old days, common people could only go up as far as the visitor center today. Lake Waiau is sacred water. Umbilical cords were put in the lake for the protection of children. My son’S umbilical cord is in the lake right now.’
Officially, Kimo is Mauna Kea’S resident ‘Hawaiian cultural practitioner,’ but he doesn’t need the title. ‘My authority comes from the ruling chiefs of Hawaii. I’m the conscience of the Hawaiian people up here.’
An elder and priest – kahuna – Kimo and others walked up the mountain in 1998 to voice their deep concern over the ‘golf balls’ – the observatories. Sacred places and burial sites had been built on and disturbed, and new observatories were going up without communicating with or consulting Native Hawaiians.
‘We found astronomers were not having respect for the mountain.’ A rally was held, and Kimo says, ‘I scolded all of them, from the governor on down. Our people were ready