Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [212]
Skiing Mauna Kea is a novelty experience and entirely DIY. There are no groomed trails, no lifts, no patrols; exposed rocks and ice sheets are constant dangers. The snow isn’t exactly Utah powder, either – more like milky granola. Note that commercial ski tours on Mauna Kea are prohibited.
Return to beginning of chapter
TOURS
The Onizuka Visitor Information Station offers free summit tours (admission free; 1pm Sat & Sun), but you must provide your own 4WD transportation. No reservations are needed; simply arrive at the visitor center by 1pm to join the tour. (You might hitch a ride with a friendly person with a 4WD, but don’t count on it.) The first hour is spent watching videos about Mauna Kea as you acclimatize, then you caravan to the summit, where you hear a talk on the history and workings of the summit telescopes. The tours then visit one or two telescopes: the University of Hawai′i’S 2.2m telescope and/or WM Keck’S 10m telescope. Tours depart from the summit at about 4:30pm, but most people stay for sunset and come down on their own. Pregnant women, children under 16, and those with circulatory and respiratory conditions are not allowed, and tours don’t go in bad weather, so call ahead.
Subaru Telescope (934-5056; www.naoj.org/Information/Tour/Summit; tours 10:30am, 11:30am & 1:30pm) offers 30-minute summit tours up to 15 days per month, in English and in Japanese. You must make reservations (by internet only), and you need your own transportation to the summit.
A highly recommended alternative is taking a sunset summit tour. The two most recommended companies, Hawaii Forest & Trail and Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (see below), have excellent guides who know their history and astronomy; aided by 11-inch, satellite-guided telescopes, their stargazing sessions make the sky come alive. They also have comfortable vans, and provide gloves and parkas, a tasty hot dinner and snacks. Their tours typically start in early afternoon, include a meal stop, arrive at the summit just before sunset (staying about 40 minutes, which doesn’t allow for hiking), return to the Onizuka Center for private stargazing, and get you home after 9pm. All require participants to be at least 16 years old, and all but Arnott’S pick up from the Kona, Waikoloa and Waimea areas.
Arnott’S Lodge (969-7097; www.arnottslodge.com; 98 Apapane Rd, Hilo; guests/nonguests $70/100) Arnott’S tour is more for budget hikers than stargazers. It’S cheaper, leaves from Hilo and encourages hiking to the true summit; astronomy is bare bones, with guides relying mostly on laser pointers. BYO food and warm clothes.
Hawaii Forest & Trail (331-8505, 800-464-1993; www.hawaii-forest.com; tours $170) This excellent tour company has the nicest meal stop (at a private ranch outpost); its guides and equipment are both top-notch.
Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (322-2366, 888-322-2366; www.maunakea.com; tours $178) Mauna Kea was the first company to do summit tours, starting over 20 year ago. It remains a high-quality outfit; meals are outside at the Onizuka Center. Book online two weeks in advance for a 15% discount.
Return to beginning of chapter
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Every Saturday night at 6pm the Onizuka center hosts a rotating series of lectures and events:
‘The Universe Tonight’ First Saturday of the month. Astronomy lecture.
University of Hawai′i Hilo Astrophysics Club Second Saturday of the month. Students assist with stargazing.
Malalo I Ka Lani Po Third Saturday of the month. Culture lecture.
University of Hawai′i Hilo music program Fourth Saturday of the month. All genres.
During big meteor showers, the center staffs its telescopes for all-night star parties; call for details.
Return to beginning of chapter
SLEEPING
At the 35-mile marker, Mauna Kea State Recreation Area maintains five simple cabins ($35 per night, Friday to Sunday only), which have three twin beds and a bunk bed, flush toilets, a kitchen, lights,