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45-3503 Kahana Dr; r $195-400; ) Solar-powered, off-the-grid living doesn’t get more artfully luxurious than this. Enjoy magazine-quality interior design in each of the five rooms, with color schemes playing off dramatic art pieces. Amenities include flat-screen TVs, cell phones, robes and yoga mats; several have wood stoves, one a view from its soaking tub. The gracious, relaxing public areas and expansive, hidden grounds include a tremendous common room with marble fireplace, outdoor hot tub, lily pond, spacious lanai, downstairs room with carved Balinese bed and more. Toss in a three-course gourmet breakfast (from the restaurant-certified kitchen) and afternoon wine and pupu, and this place is a real knockout.

Eating

Honoka′a has a natural foods grocery, an independent butcher and a supermarket; near the Honokaa Trading Company, a farmers market is held on Saturday from 7:30am.

Simply Natural (775-0119; www.hawaiisimplynatural.com; Mamane St; dishes $4-10; 8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 9-11:30am Sun; ) Order up organic, wholesome taro pancakes, tempeh eggs, fruit smoothies and fresh sandwiches at this good-vibe café; free internet access for customers. Live music Saturday mornings.

Tex Drive-In (775-0598; Hwy 19, mile marker 43; sandwiches & plate lunches $4-9; 6:30am-8pm-ish) A malasada is just a donut, but Tex is famous for making them fresh and delicious. They come plain (96¢) or filled (add 35¢). Tex also serves an above average plate lunch, with crisp green salads; burgers on sweetbread buns are good, too.

Café il Mondo (775-7711; 45-3626A Mamane St; sandwiches $7, pizza $12-15; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) This casual Italian restaurant takes a slow-food approach to its classic renditions of lasagna, roast chicken and pastas. The excellent pizzas and calzones are flavorful (if a little oily); BYOB.

Entertainment

Honoka′a People’S Theater (775-0000; Mamane St; adult/child $6/3) Catch a first-run movie in this atmospheric 1930s theater. It also hosts occasional events, including the not-to-be-missed Hamakua Music Festival (opposite).

Shopping

Honokaa Trading Company (775-0808; Mamane St; 10:30am-4:30pm, hours vary) Whole afternoons can be lost rummaging through the dusty treasures, used books and aloha shirts in this secondhand store. It’S worth stopping just for the vintage signs.

Kama′aina Woods (775-7722; www.hulihands.com; Lehua St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) This workshop creates some of the finest koa woodwork you’ll find. The store also sells smaller items to go with its gems, like a koa concert ukulele.

Honokaa Marketplace (775-8255; 45-3586 Mamane St; 9am-5:30pm) Amazing handmade Hawaiian quilts, bright painted bedspreads and sheets.

LalaSun Designs (775-1818; www.lalasun.com; 45-3577 Mamane St; 11am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Gorgeous and unique handmade batik clothes for men and women.

Taro Patch (775-7228; Mamane St; 10am-5pm) This upscale gift store has a little of everything, so you’re sure to find something.

Hamakua Fudge Shop (775-1430; 45-3611 Mamane St; 10:30am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Creamy fudge ($14 per pound), all made here, with unusual island variations. There’S no finer use of the mac nut.

Getting There & Away

From Monday to Saturday the free Hele-On Bus (Click here) arrives from Kona on the 7 Downtown Hilo route, then continues on to Hilo. From Hilo, take either the 31 Honoka′a route or the 16 Kailua–Kona route (which continues to Kona). It takes an hour or so from either direction.

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KUKUIHAELE

pop 320

This tiny village, about 7 miles from Honoka′a on a loop road off Hwy 240, consists of two shops, a post office mail drop, and a few places to stay – if you dare. Kukuihaele means ‘traveling light’ and refers to the ‘night marchers’: the ghosts of Hawaiian warriors carrying torches on their way to Waipi′o Valley, which contains a hidden entrance to the netherworld. According to legend, if you look directly at them or get in their way, you’ll die. It’S possible to survive if your ancestor is a marcher, or if you lie face down on the ground.

Sleeping

Hale Kukui