Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [237]
Considering this, it is somewhat surprising that Puna is the fastest-growing district in the state. It has some of the state’S most affordable land, in subdivisions that were marked out over 50 years ago and sparsely settled – until now. The northern half of Puna is becoming one unending subdivision, with home prices doubling and tripling, and the population poised to almost double within a decade. Most agree Puna faces an infrastructure crisis, not to mention an identity crisis.
That Puna will be different a decade from now goes without question, but whether by human design or Pele’S whim, who knows?
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KEA′AU
pop 2010
Just off Hwy 11, Kea′au is Puna’S largest town, and it serves the major shopping and business needs of the district’S burgeoning subdivisions – Hawaiian Paradise Park, Hawaiian Beaches, Hawaiian Acres and Orchidland Estates. For travelers, it’S mainly useful for fresh provisions, particularly if you’re headed to Volcano village, which lacks a decent grocery store.
Everything is near the main crossroads. The Kea′au Shopping Center has a laundry, an ATM, a large grocery store, a natural food store and a Longs drugstore (all open daily except Longs, which is closed Sun). Across the road, small Kea′au Village Market (966-4853; 7am-5pm) has outdoor stalls with fresh local produce, gift shops and a couple of lunch counters serving local grinds.
If you’re looking for adventure, detour for some spelunking in the 500-year-old Kazumura Cave, which at 41 surveyed miles is the world’S longest lava tube. Kilauea Caverns of Fire (217-2363; www.kilaueacavernsoffire.com; 1/3hr tours $29/79; by appointment) conducts two tours – an easy one-hour walk or a three-hour scramble. Call for reservations and directions; the entrance is on private land in Orchidland Estates.
Sleeping
Art & Orchids B&B (982-8197, 877-393-1894; www.artandorchids.com; 16-1504 39th Ave; r incl breakfast $90-115; ) The artistic, eco-conscious owners have created a dreamy, relaxed haven in an ohia forest. Three airy, tastefully decorated rooms include funky mosaic-tile baths and tons of amenities. The spacious common room has a full kitchen and cozy couches for reading and games. An unforgettable lava-rock-and-mosaic-tile swimming pool has a waterfall and hot tub. Papermaking and mosaic classes are given on request, and they’ll happily babysit your kids and do art projects with them (per hour $20). The generous homemade breakfast includes fresh farm eggs. This is Puna at its best.
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MOUNTAIN VIEW & AROUND
Along Hwy 11, west of Kea′au, are several notable stops along the northern edge of Puna. Just past Kurtistown is the Fuku-Bansai Cultural Center (982-9880; www.fukubonsai.com; 17-856 Ola′a Rd; admission free; 8am-4pm Mon-Sat). This working nursery cultivates the art of Japanese bonsai; tour impressive outdoor displays of these miniature trees. The specialty, dwarf schefflera, have aerial roots like handheld banyan trees; it’S a kooky shift in perspective.
Just before Mountain View, after the 12-mile marker, visit Dan DeLuz’S Woods (968-6607; Hwy 11; 9am-5pm). Dan is a master woodworker who takes native hardwoods such as koa, sandalwood, mango and banyan and crafts gorgeous bowls, platters and furniture. His store is an education in the art, and his workshop is next door. Adjacent Koa Shop Kaffee (968-1129; Hwy 11; mains $5-9; 7am-8pm, till 9pm Sat & Sun) is a home-style diner with average plate lunches and sandwiches.
A half-mile further, coffee addicts (or lovers, if you will) should put on the brakes for the Hilo Coffee Mill (968-1333; www.hilocoffeemill.com; 17-995 Hwy 11; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat). It’S dedicated to promoting East Hawai′i coffee, which has begun rivaling Kona coffee for excellence. Free coffee tastings treat roasts like fine wine, and free tours include the roaster next door. The Mill sells a full range of beverages and whole beans.