Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [245]
Where the lava will be and the effort required to reach it are impossible to predict. When lava flows within national park boundaries, as it has almost continuously since 1983, the National Park Service facilitates lava viewing (flow updates 967-8862; http://hvo.wr.usgs.gov). As of early 2009, it was possible to view the Halema′uma′u Crater eruption from the Jagger Museum, though no molten lava had yet emerged on the crater floor. Often it’S possible to hike to flowing lava from the end of Chain of Craters Road (for facilities here, Click here). Occasionally, lava flows right at road’S end, but more often reaching it involves a hike of one to several miles over a wracked lava landscape.
When lava flows outside park boundaries, viewing sites are managed by the county; as of early 2009, the county was maintaining a viewing area at Kalapana (Click here).
Whatever the hike, the best strategy is to come during daylight and stay through sunset, when the surreal orange glow illuminates the night. Trails are marked with temporary reflectors, and safe viewing areas are roped off. It is paramount that you respect these boundaries. Like moths to a flame, people want to get as close to the flow as possible, but when molten 2100°F rock meets the ocean, the explosions send showers of scalding water and lava chunks raining down. In 2000, two people were found scalded to death. New ledges or benches of lava can collapse without warning. In 1993 a bench collapse killed one person and seriously injured a dozen others; a 2007 bench collapse sent 58 acres into the sea (luckily injuring no one). In the excitement of the moment, don’t forget to respect Pele’S power.
Finally, come prepared. It may rain, so bring rain gear. Wear sturdy shoes, pants, and a hat, and bring water and one flashlight per person. You might also want a walking stick, gloves, first aid kit, and some food. Oh, and your camera (fully loaded).
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Another major, constant concern is air quality. Halema′uma′u Crater and Pu′u ′O′o vent belch thousands of tons of sulfur dioxide daily. Where lava meets the sea, it also creates a ‘steam plume,’ which is a toxic cocktail of sulfuric and hydrochloric acid mixed with airborne silica (or glass particles). All this combines to create ‘vog’ (for more on vog, Click here), which depending on the winds can settle over the park. Before hiking, check the visitor center’S air-quality monitor. In addition, steam vents throughout the park spew high concentrations of sulfuric fumes (which smell like rotten egg); Halema′uma′u Overlook (Map) and Sulphur Banks (Map) are prime spots. Given all this, people with respiratory and heart conditions, pregnant women, infants and young children should take special care when visiting.
Finally, vast areas of the park qualify as desert. Dehydration is common. Carrying two quarts of water per person is the standard advice, but bring more and keep a gallon in the trunk: you’ll drink it.
If you plan to get out of your car, come prepared: bring hiking shoes or sneakers, long pants, a hat, sunscreen, water (and snacks), a flashlight with extra batteries and a first aid kit.
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SIGHTS
Crater Rim Drive
This incredible 11-mile loop road skirts the rim of Kilauea Caldera. It passes the visitor center, a museum, a lava tube, steam vents, rifts, hiking trails and views of the smoking crater that’ll knock your socks off. Don’t miss it. Also, since it’S relatively level, it’S the park’S best road for cyclists. This description starts at the visitor center and goes counterclockwise.
Note that as of early 2009, the portion of the road closest to Halema′uma′u Crater, including the Halema′uma′u Overlook, was closed due to eruption activity.
KILAUEA VISITOR CENTER
The tidy visitors center (Map) is an excellent place to start. A small theater shows